RPM Suspension Arm FAQ
February 12, 2009 by Baja Planet
Filed under F.A.Qs
The amount of questions that get asked about the RPM arms is really amazing.
Written by: tetsulo
General Information
- One set is will do one side of a vehicle (Front or Rear)There is no difference between right or left.
- To completely outfit a vehicle you need to order two sets of fronts and two sets of rear’s.
- The RPM Part #’s 82251 (Rear White) and 82141 (Front white) can be died using RIT Fabric Dye or equivalent.
RPM REARS
- Some peoples rear arms line up fine, other peoples don’t.
- When they don’t line up they seem to be commonly about 1/8″ off and put stress on the turnbuckle, ball end and rear upright.
- Regardless of the alignment issue, the new arms are much stiffer and cause aftermarket and factory turnbuckles to snap — often leaving a portion threaded in the upper a arm. Easiest way to remove is use a dremel cutting wheel and notch the broken piece enough to allow a flat head screwdriver to remove it.
- People are making spacers using aluminum or steel tubing and nuts, or threaded aluminum tube to spread the load across the faces of the upper a arm and ball end. I have seen aluminum tubing up to 1/2″ in diameter. People doing these mods seem to be posting positive results. (12mm is factory camber settings)
RPM FRONTS
- I haven’t seen one bad review or comment about fitment or performance.
- Lots of E-Clip eliminator mods don’t work properly cause the material around the lower ball is thicker. Basically you have to remove the E Clip ring to free up enough space to get something to work OR you have file down the head of the bolt.
- The upper arms eliminate the plastic C-Clip — this means that mods like using an additional factory brace at the back of the bulkhead doesn’t work without shaving down either the bulkhead or the suspension arms. I believe this is also the reason why the Modifier front lights don’t work — but I don’t own them so I can’t confirm.
Pictures of the brace mod and arm mod can be found here:
