The DDM Dominator® pipe features top-quality steel alloy construction, flexible header coupling, ultra-sturdy adjustable mounting system, and jaw-dropping high polish show chrome finish. Includes FREE custom X-port finned exhaust spacer for improved exhaust header cooling and to help keep the pipe clear of any frame parts! The pipe passes safely through the rear frame “box” – this design is to allow the pipe to be sufficiently wide to allow for MAXIMUM performance, while still being VERY well protected – pipe is unlikely to be exposed in a rollover. Includes genuine Zenoah exhaust gaskets and mounting hardware.

Weight is approx 1.65 pounds. Pipe is covered by lifetime warranty against manufacturing defects from DDM. Fits Zenoah and Chung Yang engines. Fits the stock 23cc “Fuelie” engine on the HPI Baja 5b, and the stock 26cc engine on the Baja 5b SS. Also fits the 5T Truck. Also fits all aftermarket and modified engines.

Available in Black and Chrome
http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.88…t.A/id.5995/.f
http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.88…t.A/id.6071/.f

Kick back and enjoy.
Dont forget to order one up if you havent already, its a Worthy upgrade for any Baja be it the SS, RTR, 2.0, or Baja 5T.

Tutorial donated by: http://formulabaja.com/

Under certain running conditions, when excessive force is placed upon the front wheel, eg impacts from extreme landings, cornering etc, the e-clip will tend to ‘pop’ off, releasing the front wheel with hub intact (diagram 1 shows stock e-clip connection).

The e-clip connection is the ‘weak’ link, designed to reduce stress on other, potentially more vital or expensive parts, in the event of an impact.

Over time, being aluminium, the hub retaining lip (pic A) will eventually become damaged and worn (as a result of the steel e-clip), to the point that it may not be able to securely retain the e-clip, resulting in the wheel being released with only the slightest of knocks.

Additionally, the e-clip will tend to gradually bow (pic D & diagram 1) after successive runs / impacts, and may go undetected (particularly if any impacts are not sufficient enough to cause the wheel to be released). This can then also result in wheel loss after a light knock. It is therefore important that the e-clips are regularly checked and replaced as necessary as part of a general maintenance routine. Good quality spring steel e-clips will improve the situation.

With the understanding of the reasons behind such a connection, an informed decision can be made whether or not to modify the connection, and the potential risks associated.

For various reasons, other than those mentioned above, the stock e-clip connection may not be desirable – for example – the need for reassurance that the wheel will stay on under race conditions, to prevent damage to front brake callipers & rotors or billet hub carriers that would have otherwise occurred on wheel loss etc. – or for the simple reason not to forever have to chase wheels and replace e-clips or lost wheel bearings.

The following are just two of the numerous options of this simple modification that can be carried out to prevent wheel loss.

NB It is understood that by carrying out these mods, and under specific driving conditions, stress will almost certainly be transferred to other parts and connections, and may potentially result in their failure. Option1 (pic 2, above) – shows an M5 thread tapped into the existing hub hole, following the removal of the projecting retaining lip (pic A, below) The above pictures can be used to illustrate both options 1 & 2.

It is important to first check the clearance available between retaining lip and the edge of the ball joint. This dim will vary, and will be instrumental in choosing how to proceed and what fixings will be most suitable.

In this example the final projection from the face of the inner bearing, including washer,  plus screw head (countersunk, button head or otherwise), could not exceed the original retaining lip projection.

Whatever option and fixing method is chosen,  it is recommended to check for free movement while using the radio to turn steering at full lock, left and right, simultaneously moving the suspension through its full motion. Aftermarket (billet) front arms* will have different tolerances to those of the stock plastic arms.  Some grinding to the ball joint or further modification to the screw / washer assembly may be required.

The use of circlips / washers can provide a good midway solution, providing a stronger hub connection, but with ‘release’ in extreme conditions (see further reading).

(*If an alloy aftermarket arm is used, It is worth researching that that particular arm has sufficient clearance for full operational movement prior to any e-clip modification)

Pic H – custom aluminium countersunk washers courtesy – Skaa63
Further Reading – HPIBajaForum thread

Front Hex Improvement - Karg

HELP!! can’t do eclip mod!! – Scoobysting ]]> http://www.bajaplanet.com/baja-mechanic/tutorials/front-wheel-hub-e-clip-modification/feed/ 8 http://www.bajaplanet.com/baja-mechanic/tutorials/oiling-installing-the-air-filter/ http://www.bajaplanet.com/baja-mechanic/tutorials/oiling-installing-the-air-filter/#comments Wed, 18 Feb 2009 16:49:51 +0000 Planet Staff http://bajaplanet.com/?p=677 Oiling & Installing the Air Filter (TGN RedNeck Dual Stage Filter / Stock inner / Outerwears Pre-Filter) Tutorial donated by: http://formulabaja.com/

Proper oiling is crucial to the operation of foam filters. The following is one recommended method of properly oiling filters -

Saturate the filter with a tacky foam filter oil. A clear plastic bag or container can be used to literally soak the filter. Disposable vinyl gloves are useful to initially to squeeze as much of the oil back into the container / bag for future use.

Then continue to remove as much of the oil by squeezing (not wringing) the filter in paper towels (pic 1)
Squeeze hard, and keep using clean towels until almost no further oil is staining the towels.

With this method, it can safely be assumed, as far as is possible, that every open cell is coated with the tacky foam filter oil, and every cell is open to pass air.

The filter can be over oiled just as easily as under-oiled. Too much oil left on the foam fills the open cells, and will prevent the passage of air, effectively choking the motor. An under oiled filter will breath fine, but can allow dirt into the motor.

NB. Protect the filter from water.  Water will carry grit through the tacky open cells–air won’t.

Clean the filter at intervals depending on use and conditions with mineral spirits or gas, followed up with soap & water. Smear grease onto the air filter sleeve face (#85444 / 1) ie where the foam filter meets the flat of the sleeve (or an even layer onto the end of the stock blue inner foam, as shown here) to effectively form a seal to the ingress of dirt (pic 2 – red arrow, pic 3).After sliding the foam filter to meet  the sleeve face, ensure a good seal is obtained against the meeting face (pic 3). Place the two part retaining clamp (#85444 / 2 & 4) and ensure that the foam end sits underneath, and is securely held by the clamp around its full circumference (pic 4)

Take the outer filter element – in this example the stock element has been replaced with the TGN RedNeck Dual Stage Pre Filter (TGN item #3225), and follow the method above for oiling (pic 5).

Note – if the outer filter is oiled correctly, it should not result in oil ‘soaking’ the Outerwears fine weave material. To ensure this does not occur, take extra care to ‘dry’ the red outer surface with paper towels. Alternatively oil as much of the inner yellow, keeping the red surface free of oil. If the Outerwears becomes overly contaminated with oil it will attract dust and dirt, preventing the free passage of air to the filter and engine.

Note: The RedNeck filter is of a slightly greater diameter than the stock element. As such, ensure that there is enough clearance for the throttle linkage to move freely. Using an Outerwears will reduce the likelihood of this occuring – and a Yamadude type linkage will reduce it even further.

Complete the assembly by placing an Outerwears pre filter over the outer TGN filter (pic 6 / 7)

Credits - Earthsurfer Products (ESP), Timmahh Further Reading
http://www.hpibajaforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13079&highlight=oil+filter+grease

http://www.hpibajaforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24162&highlight=oil+filter+grease

]]> http://www.bajaplanet.com/baja-mechanic/tutorials/oiling-installing-the-air-filter/feed/ 0 http://www.bajaplanet.com/baja-mechanic/tutorials/engine-mesh-mod-tutorial/ http://www.bajaplanet.com/baja-mechanic/tutorials/engine-mesh-mod-tutorial/#comments Wed, 18 Feb 2009 16:41:47 +0000 fasteddy http://bajaplanet.com/?p=675 Addition of mesh to lower engine intakes to prevent debris / stones etc entering flywheel area and damaging fins. You can find a metal screen mesh material at any good hardware store.

Tutorial donated by: http://formulabaja.com/
Mesh addition to pull start grille ]]> http://www.bajaplanet.com/baja-mechanic/tutorials/engine-mesh-mod-tutorial/feed/ 2 http://www.bajaplanet.com/baja-mechanic/tutorials/sand-running-tips-general-modifications-notes/ http://www.bajaplanet.com/baja-mechanic/tutorials/sand-running-tips-general-modifications-notes/#comments Wed, 18 Feb 2009 16:36:12 +0000 Planet Staff http://bajaplanet.com/?p=673 Recommended Sand Running Upgrades, General Modifications & Notes

These are general options you can use to help protect your Baja when running in the sand. You can do as maney or as few of the segistions you find here. They will all help.

Tutorial donated by: http://formulabaja.com/

• Check all screw fixings and ensure they are all snug, particularly those associated with the exhaust, engine / carb / filter.
• Rear sand paddles, and ideally front sand ribs –  mounted up another set of rims so that you’re not forever changing beadlocks.
• TGN RedNeck Dual Stage Filter / Blue stock inner foam both suitably oiled with tacky foam filter oil, with Outerwears pre filter cover (drawstring type may be slightly easier to pull over assembly than the elastic type)
• Outerwears Pull start pre-filter
• Turtle Racing Steel Clutch bell
• Ideally an improved throttle Linkage set up, eg Yamadude style -
• If necessary modifications can be done to the stock throttle linkage –  a drill can be used to carefully increase the hole size in the black slider and decrease the chances of sticking due to grit /sand build up.  The insertion of two small metal eyelets in the increased holes, one at at each end of the slider, may also improve free movement.
• Grease the carb throttle shaft and place 4 x o-rings P4  (4 x 2mm clear #75070) as used in the  shocks, along its length. Grease again, and slip on a trimmed axle boot prior to screwing on the throttle arm. This will protect the shaft and dirt entering behind the e clip.
• Sand will stick to the surface of grease creating a natural barrier and prevent it from entering further and causing potential problems.
• Grease on ‘spring side’ throttle arm (Dieelectric grease, available from marine accessories suppliers etc)
• Shock covers, eg badhorsie.com for protecting the shocks / shafts / prevention of seal wear due to sand abrasion
• Smear grease onto the air filter sleeve face (#85444 / 1) ie where the foam filter meets the flat of the sleeve (or an even layer onto the end of the stock blue inner foam) to effectively form a seal to the ingress of dirt.
• Mesh mod   to engine intakes & pull starter grille
• Elcon clutch with a Bashproof plate or similar quality clutches such as Lauterbacher
• Clutch cover – options include, amongst others, Modified RC cover, Billet Enclosed Clutch Drum Carrier with integrated right rear engine mount, Ramtech billet enclosed clutch holder and Modified RC billet clutch cover used with Ramtech billet clutch bell carrier
• Pen spring mod – to caliper pins between brake pad to prevent binding
• Windscreen and side windows, body – first lines of defence, will help deflect much of the sand from your vitals
• Chassis side panels – flexible diy inserts or DTL rocker panels by dliguori25.
• When installing the missing bearing (B029) to the RTR gear case (drive gear shaft), it is probably a good idea to leave the rubber washer #86667(RTR) in place, with the new bearing pushed up against it to seal any gap and keep sand out of the bearing / box

Note that, given the nature of sand bashing (rolling, cartwheeling etc), pipes with baffles removed or short exhaust pipes such as the X-Can will have an increased chance of sand entering the engine and potentially causing serious damage. Of course all pipes will be at some risk to depending on driving style / conditions etc.

Manufacturers Product Listing

General Information

• One set is will do one side of a vehicle (Front or Rear)There is no difference between right or left.
• To completely outfit a vehicle you need to order two sets of fronts and two sets of rear’s.
• The RPM Part #’s 82251 (Rear White) and 82141 (Front white) can be died using RIT Fabric Dye or equivalent.

RPM REARS

• Some peoples rear arms line up fine, other peoples don’t.
• When they don’t line up they seem to be commonly about 1/8″ off and put stress on the turnbuckle, ball end and rear upright.
• Regardless of the alignment issue, the new arms are much stiffer and cause aftermarket and factory turnbuckles to snap — often leaving a portion threaded in the upper a arm. Easiest way to remove is use a dremel cutting wheel and notch the broken piece enough to allow a flat head screwdriver to remove it.
• People are making spacers using aluminum or steel tubing and nuts, or threaded aluminum tube to spread the load across the faces of the upper a arm and ball end. I have seen aluminum tubing up to 1/2″ in diameter. People doing these mods seem to be posting positive results. (12mm is factory camber settings)

Link to spacer mod

RPM FRONTS

• I haven’t seen one bad review or comment about fitment or performance.
• Lots of E-Clip eliminator mods don’t work properly cause the material around the lower ball is thicker. Basically you have to remove the E Clip ring to free up enough space to get something to work OR you have file down the head of the bolt.
• The upper arms eliminate the plastic C-Clip — this means that mods like using an additional factory brace at the back of the bulkhead doesn’t work without shaving down either the bulkhead or the suspension arms. I believe this is also the reason why the Modifier front lights don’t work — but I don’t own them so I can’t confirm.

Pictures of the brace mod and arm mod can be found here:

http://www.hpibajaforum.com/forum/sh…ht=rpm+tetsulo

CARB TUNING FOR GAS RC ENGINES

Thank you for buying A ESP engine. This is a guide only. ESP will not be responsible for failures unless it is the fault of ESP workmanship.
Keep in mind that the low speed carb jet screw flows fuel from zero to about 1/3rd throttle opening. The high speed jets starts flowing from about 1/3rd throttle open to full throttle. Both jets flow fuel above 1/3rd throttle.
Set the high speed jet at 2 turns out from bottom to start. Set the low speed jet at about 1&½ turns out and set the idle up for easier first time starting. Warm the engine on the stand for a few min, rev the engine on the stand a bit while rough setting the low speed jet and idle, for idle to rev throttle response. Close the low speed too far, and the idle goes up and starts vibrating from a lean condition. Open the low to far and the engine will run rich and die. Stay on the rich side, but make sure throttle response from idle is good. Typically, you will end up with a L jet at 1&1/8th to 1&1/2 out. Continue to rev the engine for a few minutes above half throttle, but not holding it in any one position, to run the engine with the high speed jet flowing. Shut it down, and check the plug color. The plug should be a dark color like a dark brown or black. The rich settings we start with could possibly foul a spark plug, so you might want to have a new plug or two on hand for tuning. This dark plug color is good for now, it means we are getting plenty of fuel–at least on the stand.

The H speed jet is critical, and a RC engine can seize in seconds if the fuel/air mixture is lean at high rpm. Because of this, we creep up on high rpm one run at a time, checking the plug for each higher RPM run.

1. With the H speed screw out 2 full turns, run the buggy 30 seconds at a time at about 8,000 to 9,000 rpm (or where your clutch is just engaged). Keep running the buggy at the low RPM until the plug starts building up some dark color. We will need deposit built up on the plug to burn off for “reading the plug”, when we start leaning out the carb H jet later.
2. The plug should stay dark for the rest of this test, until we start adjusting the H screw more lean after we get to full throttle tests. We are now going to raise RPM approx 1000 rpm for 30 seconds for each run, and check the plug after each run to make sure it is still dark. You should have about 10 increments of 1000 rpm from clutch engagement, to full throttle, but the more increments you use, (less RPM rise for each run), the safer you will be. If, while your doing the runs, and getting higher in the rpm, you start seeing the deposit burning off the plug to a brown or lighter color, you have a problem with your fuel system (bad carb, fuel filters, fuel lines) or a possible air leak that you have to fix before you can continue. You may have just saved your engine from a lean seizure.
3. When you get to 30 sec full throttle runs with a dark plug, now it is time to start leaning out the H jet. After a full throttle run, check the plug, and it should still be dark with the H screw 2 full turns out. Turn in the screw 1/16th at a time, and continue doing full throttle runs, plug checks, and H screw carb adjustments, until the plug is a brown paper bag color. Do one or two full throttle runs to make sure the plug does not get any lighter. Then fine tune the low speed jet for the best hole shot, and your done. It is a good idea to write down the amount of turns you are at when done, for a reference.

Note, many carb bolts are too long. If your long carb bolts (that hold on the filter, and go through the carb, into the intake manifold), reach all the way through your intake manifold, you will have to shorten the bolts, or risk a damaged cylinder and air leak, possibly seizing the engine.

To help insure you don’t seize your engine due to a carb failure or clogged fuel filters, etc (something other than your set screws), it is a good idea to do a few increments and plug checks every time you take out the machine. Jet richer on cold days, and always re jet for any modification you may make. There is no such thing as “stock settings”, jet it yourself from scratch, or risk seizing the engine.

Doug @ ESP
(616) 458-8103 (Eastern standard time zone) Earthsurferfun@yahoo.com

Must have items:

• Outerwears Pill start cover
• Outerwears Air filter cover
• Fuel filter.
• Ratio Rite measuring cup

Optional Items but worth looking at for your first purchases:

• Axel Extenders
• Clutch / wheel shims
• Clutch carrier

Pull start and Airfilter covers will keep the dust, sand, grass, and dirt out of the covered parts. Dirt in the carb is the #1 reason for engine failure. The pull start will fail quickly is not properly protected. If nothing else get these two items. It will be the best money spent.

An external fuel filter will keep the crud out of your engine. The Baja has an internal “Clunk” style filter but it doesn’t always catch everything. This is a cheap and easy part to get and will again, help insure that you are protected. When you go to get one, make sure it specifically states that its for GASOLINE.

A Measuring cup designed for mixing fuel and oil will help make sure you are getting the proper mixture. Performance issues and blown engines can the result of errors in mixing your fuel and oil.

Axel extenders will help stabilize your new ride. If your driving style finds you on your lid often, look into a set of extenders. You will be amazed at the big difference they make. Several companies offer them. The most popular ones are made by DarkSoul Racing but there are several other companies to choose from.

Clutch and wheel shims are a needed item. From the factory or during your build you will notice a lot of in and out play in your wheel hubs. Installing the proper thickness shims will get rid of this “Slop” In return, your bearings will last longer and you will reduce C-Clip failure on the front hubs. The stock clutch bell has a lot of “Slop In it. Shimming the bell will reduce all sorts of slop related issues. The same shim size is used in both places. HPI offers the proper size shim in one thickness and Team FastEddy offers a Shim Kit that includes several different thicknesses to get everything just right.

The stock clutch carrier will be fine for a while. Its made of plastic and can quickly distort from the heat and torque. This will cause many issues down the line including melted spur gears, broken pinion bolts, and quickly trashed bearings. An alloy holder is a great solution to this. HPI had their “HD” carrier that includes larger bearings, Turtle Racing has an enclosed  HD Clutch System that is close to bullet proof. There are others on the market as well, Do some research and choose one that you like.

Once you have these “Essential” items covered its time to go have some fun and know that you have made you rig more “Solid” and dependable.

This 100 segment video manual will offer you not only a step by step guide to building your Baja SS but also offers you a huge amount of tips and tricks to help inspire the best possible build and building experience.

It is laid out in 100 segments each being from 5-10 minutes in length. Follow along step by step or search for a page number and watch the video if you get stuck and need help.

CLICK HERE to take you to the series.

Comments from people that have watched the video series:

Hi TeamFastEddy,
These vids are very clear and were great when some of the instructions didn’t quite
make sense in my build. Thanks alot!

Not sure who does Your videos for hpibajatutorials.com I’d like to tell
them I think there great …….there perfect!!!!!!! I have been doing this
hobby 30years 20 in retail and it was even helpful to me….. If this was
sent to wrong place please forward it as person deserves to get this email

Thanks owner of
Cruizin with r/c’s
Ron Bosco

I just purchased my first baja SS and Ive been watching your tutorial vids and I must say your doing an excellent job! very informative, very clear to understand, A+++……

I whould like to thank you for nearly 100 part “Building The HPI Baja SS Tutorial” Series ! Withouot the tutorial the baja whould be a lot harder to build. I have just finished my baja and i was working on it just 2 days thanks to your tutorial !

Best regards
Jakub

I would like to thank you for nearly 100 part “Building The HPI Baja SS Tutorial” Series ! Withouot the tutorial the baja whould be a lot harder to build. I have just finished my baja and i was working on it just 2 days thanks to your tutorial !

Awesome videos… I am almost done my ss build and this series has been most helpful when HPIs manual was not 100% clear. Keep it up

OMG!!! arnt u bored of making videos?????? But thanks for making all your videos they were bloody awesome!!!!! watch (madigan8hosking) Thanks bro ur a chiller

LOL Eddy you crack me up sometimes. “Its mandatory that you drop the pin on the floor” Keep up the awesome work on the tutorial videos.

Next step: EXHAUST PIPE heheheheh wiiii. The truth is that these doing a marvellous work, and you still have the car fantastic. I see the videoes from the beginnings heheheh, from the presentation of the box of the baja 5b ss and every day I look if you have put some video more. For you, it has to of getting mad to be doing little by little the car, because it’s really funny build the baja littles by little. A greeting, and spirit!!

Continue makin videos!!you are great!!excellent videos, very simple to understand step by step!!!

All I can say is Thank You…Im a 61 year old farmer from Iowa and I did the SS in the 18 hour range. thanks for taking it rather slow at times,is was needed…again Thank you XXXX Webster City Iowa……….Go Fast Turn Left

Cheers and thanks for these videos, I’m loading them onto my iphone so
I can build this thing without a laptop next to me.

Fast Eddy Sets a standard in my book A+++

I just wanted to thank Fast Eddy. What an outstanding guy who sets a standard. I hold myself to pretty high standards IMO and Eddy showed me one better. We ran together with close to 20 other guys, and we all had problems breaking etc, and Eddy was there to help each and everyone one of us. I just wanted let Eddy know how much I appreciated his help (and parts ..lol) You are one of the most helpful persons I have met in this hobby to date! Corey Rpp Hobby

Posted by adamhc

I finally finished my 5b ss build. The videos were a very much needed repository of information.

Turtle racing has addressed theses issues with two separate packages. This tutorial will cover the installation of both kits as well as the installation of the “Missing Bearing”

• Turtle Racing Billet Differential Case Saver Kit
• Turtle Racing Reinforced Axle Set for HPI Baja 5b

Parts needed:

• Turtle Racing Billet Differential Case Saver Kit
• Turtle Racing Reinforced Axle Set for HPI Baja 5b

Optional Items:

• Baja 5B Stainless Steel Screw Kit
• Complete Baja 5B Bearing kit
• Body Clips

Step 1: Preform Brake Maintenance

Step 2: Removing the Baja differential

Step 3:
Once the case is separated, remove the gear. It just sits in the case but may stick due to the diff oil. I chose to remove the cross pin set screw before taking the gear out but it is not necessary (See the next step.) You can do it now or later.

Remove the screw securing the cross pin with a 3mm wrench. Its assembled using locktite and my be difficult to remove. Use a screwdriver placed in the diff shaft slots to aid in its removal.

Remove the case plug with a 3/32 wrench and slide the pin out through the hole. Keep an eye out for the little rubber O-ring. These parts are supplied in your New Turtle Racing package but if your like me you will want to save everything just encase.

Remove the cross pin from the side hole. I used a needle nose pliers to help.

Pull the diff shaft from the case.

Remove the outer bearing. You may need to apply GENTLE pressure from underneath with a screwdriver. Be careful doing so as not to damage the bearing. Just work it off a little at a time going around the bottom of the bearing little by little.

Using a pick remove the diff washer on the inside of the case along with the copper bushing under it.

Remove the remaining bearing and the O ring under it.

Now grab the 2nd diff half with the diff gear assembly in it.

Remove the diff gear assembly by simply pulling it out of the case with your fingers. If it comes apart, dont worry just set it aside on a paper towel.

Repeat the steps above on this diff half to strip it down.

——————————————————-

Now the fun part, lets put it all back together now.

Remove the aluminum housing from your new Turtle racing dif half. As you assemble them you can do both at the same time or one half at a time its up to you. There is no difference between the two halvs so just get busy.

Install the rubber bearing seal supplied in your Turtle kit into the case Make sure its seated. I like to lube up all O-rings and rubber gaskets before I install them. Use some diff lube. Im sure there is plenty of it all over the place by now. Just rub some on.

Install the bearing.

Install the outer bearing. Make sure both are properly seated all the way. Press them with your palms. You feel the outer bearing seat and my even hear a pop when it does.

On the inside of the diff install the supplied copper bushing.

Install the diff washer.

Slide one of the two shorter Turtle Racing diff shafts all the way into the dif half.

Install the cross pin from the side hole.

Install the setting screw to secure the pin. Use locktite on the screw. Make sure the pin is centered then tighten it good and tight. Use a screwdriver in the slots of the diff shaft to hold it so you can get the screw good and tight.

Use the Stainless steel case plug and rubber O-ring supplied with your Turtle Racing kit and install it into the side of the diff case. It needs to be seated tight but not so tight it blows out the O-ring seal.

Drop the gear onto the cross pin. If it doesn’t fully seat flat check the cross pin and make sure its centered properly.

Drop in 1/2 of the gear set and cage. It doesn’t have to be all in place. As long as it look something like this your fine.

Work the gears into place against the cage. Make sure the pin is centered and the notch is pointing up.

Drop the 3rd cage in.

Put the 4th cage and the 2nd gear set together like this.

Drop it in. Again, it doesn’t have to be all in place at this time.

Work the gears and the pin into place. The notch in the upper pin must be pointing down and fit into place with the notch in the lower pin that is facing up.. It should all line up and fall into place with a little work. There are other ways to do this but this method works for me.

Lubricate the gasket supplied in your Turtle Racing Kit and drop it into place. It should sit in the groove that goes around the lip on the case. Always us a new gasket when assembling your diff. Turtle Racing was kind enough to include an additional unit with the kit. You should have also received several additional gaskets with your 5B kit.

Fill the diff with the lube of your choice. Make sure to spin the gears to allow the lube to distribute evenly. Fill it up to the top of the cross pins.

Put the two diff halfs together. Make sure you align it so the case plugs are on the same position as shown in the photo.

You will see that one of the aluminum case halfs has notches in it. We will install the large gear onto this half.

Align the screw holes on the case with the holes on the gear.
Press fit the case inside the gear and make sure its seated. If its tight turn the case until you get the best fit. You have 4 chances. It may be a bit tight but it will slide on using hand pressure. Make sure it is fully seated. Take note in the photo of the gear side to install the housing onto.

Install the Turtle Racing housings over the plastic diff cases making sure the hole on the outer aluminum case is lined up with the Stainless steel plugs in the case. Study the photo.

Install the 4 supplied screws making sure you use loctite. Tighten them up in a cross pattern.

What a pretty site!! To bad no one will see such fine workmanship. Just grin knowing its installed.

At this point you can re-install the diff back into the gear box and screw the gear box back onto the chassis, or go to the next optional step of installing the “Missing Bearing”.

*************************
Optional step
Installing the MISSING BEARING.

The next part is an optional step. We will install what is known as the “Missing Bearing”. There is debate as to whether this bearing is necessary or not. The way I see it, it can hurt. Where the input shaft enters the case there is a dust shield that seals dirt out of the diff case. Many believe that there should be a bearing in this spot to better support the shaft. Its obvious by design that a bearing should be here. You have just spent some hard earned money beefing up your diff and rear drive train, your sitting there with the case cracked open, what do you have to loose?

You will need to purchase this bearing as it does not come with the Baja5B from the factory.
(1) 12 X 24 X 6 Bearing can be purchased by clicking the link or it is included in our Full Bearing Kit By clicking this link.

We need to remove the input shaft from the case. Use a 5/64th hex wrench to take out the set pin from the brake hub.

Slide the brake hub off the shaft.

Slide the input shaft out of the case.

Using a needle nose pliers, squeeze the two tabs together on the dust shield retaining clip and pull the clip out.

Remove and clean the dust shield. Apply a small amount of heavy grease to the rubber on the shield. YOU MUST REINSTALL THE SHIELD.

Install the bearing into the case over the dust shield. Make sure it is seated firmly.

Now reinstall the input shaft and the the brake hub.

Drop the rest of the gears into the case.

Reassemble the two case halfs.

Mount the diffcase back into the chassis.

END OF MISSING BEARING INSTALLATION.
**************************
Next we need to install the new Heavy duty Dog bones. The bones that came with your Turtle Racing kit are heavier then the stock units and have been modified to work with the kit and must be installed. The stock units will not properly work.

In this part of the tutorial, I have already reassembled the entire Baja.
A few of these steps will not be needed if you have just upgraded your diff and are putting everything back together.

First we will remove the screw that holds the cross pin. Using a 3mm hex, place it inside the hub until you feel it seat into the head of the screw. You may need to use a pick to clean out the hex head if its full of dirt. Use your wheel wrench to hold the hub if needed.

Once the screw is removed, Use the tip of your hex wrench to push the pin out. If its bent or to tight, use an awl and a small tap hammer.

Next using a 3mm hex wrench, we will remove the screw from the pivot ball.

Using your fingers, gently tug on the inner boot to remove it from the diff shaft. Be careful not to tear it.

Now do the same with the outer boot.

The drive axle should easily slide out. It helps to make sure its clean and free of dirt.

Apply some grease to one end of the dog bone.

Aliign the slots on the drive axle with the pins on the dog bone and slide them together. Once they are together, work the boot over the Axle shaft.

Slide the shaft fully into the hub. Work the boot all the way to the hub so it makes a good seal to keep the grease in and dirt out.

Apply grease to the inner end of the dog bone.

insert the inner end of the bone into the shaft. Do NOT seat the boot at this time.

Reattach the pivot ball to the hub carrier.

Now work the inner boot over the shaft making sure its tight against the diff.

Replete this process for the other side.

Go ahead and put everything back together using the steps listed above in the tutorial.

CONGRATULATIONS!!
You now have the strongest drive train available for the 5B. Your money and time has been well spent.

I would like to thank Turtle Racing for their time and effort on the development of this kit. They stop at nothing to produce the finest quality products available.

During the making of this guide we chose to use a Stainless Steel screw kit to replace the factory screws. Stainless Steel doesn’t rust and offers much better protection against the elements. I also have to say they look great.

We also chose to replace the bearings at the time of this guide.

In our shop we use only Blue Locktite jell stick. Its a lot less messy and can accurately be applied to the threads more so then liquid. Our biggest reason is that it doesn’t separate so there is no need to shake it up before every use.