Front wheel hub E-clip modification.
February 18, 2009 by Planet Staff
Filed under Tutorials
| E-clip Modification to front wheel hub | |
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Tutorial donated by: http://formulabaja.com/
Under certain running conditions, when excessive force is placed upon the front wheel, eg impacts from extreme landings, cornering etc, the e-clip will tend to ‘pop’ off, releasing the front wheel with hub intact (diagram 1 shows stock e-clip connection). The e-clip connection is the ‘weak’ link, designed to reduce stress on other, potentially more vital or expensive parts, in the event of an impact. Over time, being aluminium, the hub retaining lip (pic A) will eventually become damaged and worn (as a result of the steel e-clip), to the point that it may not be able to securely retain the e-clip, resulting in the wheel being released with only the slightest of knocks. Additionally, the e-clip will tend to gradually bow (pic D & diagram 1) after successive runs / impacts, and may go undetected (particularly if any impacts are not sufficient enough to cause the wheel to be released). This can then also result in wheel loss after a light knock. It is therefore important that the e-clips are regularly checked and replaced as necessary as part of a general maintenance routine. Good quality spring steel e-clips will improve the situation. With the understanding of the reasons behind such a connection, an informed decision can be made whether or not to modify the connection, and the potential risks associated. For various reasons, other than those mentioned above, the stock e-clip connection may not be desirable – for example – the need for reassurance that the wheel will stay on under race conditions, to prevent damage to front brake callipers & rotors or billet hub carriers that would have otherwise occurred on wheel loss etc. – or for the simple reason not to forever have to chase wheels and replace e-clips or lost wheel bearings. The following are just two of the numerous options of this simple modification that can be carried out to prevent wheel loss. NB It is understood that by carrying out these mods, and under specific driving conditions, stress will almost certainly be transferred to other parts and connections, and may potentially result in their failure. |
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| Option1 (pic 2, above) – shows an M5 thread tapped into the existing hub hole, following the removal of the projecting retaining lip (pic A, below) | |
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| The above pictures can be used to illustrate both options 1 & 2.
It is important to first check the clearance available between retaining lip and the edge of the ball joint. This dim will vary, and will be instrumental in choosing how to proceed and what fixings will be most suitable. In this example the final projection from the face of the inner bearing, including washer, plus screw head (countersunk, button head or otherwise), could not exceed the original retaining lip projection. Whatever option and fixing method is chosen, it is recommended to check for free movement while using the radio to turn steering at full lock, left and right, simultaneously moving the suspension through its full motion. Aftermarket (billet) front arms* will have different tolerances to those of the stock plastic arms. Some grinding to the ball joint or further modification to the screw / washer assembly may be required. The use of circlips / washers can provide a good midway solution, providing a stronger hub connection, but with ‘release’ in extreme conditions (see further reading).(*If an alloy aftermarket arm is used, It is worth researching that that particular arm has sufficient clearance for full operational movement prior to any e-clip modification) |
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| Pic H – custom aluminium countersunk washers courtesy – Skaa63 | |
Further Reading – HPIBajaForum thread Front Hex Improvement - Karg HELP!! can’t do eclip mod!! – Scoobysting |
About the Front wheel hub E-clip modification.
I have a question:
Where can I find the M4 x 35mm and the lock nut plus the washers for make the option #2.
Any help please?
Thanks
About the Front wheel hub E-clip modification.
M4 x 35mm and the lock nut plus the washers for make the option #2.
If anyone knows where to get those, please email me at axelfebles@me.com
That’s a great mod!!! Everyone should do that to their Baja’s.
Thanks
I think that the original design is better. Its made to break away, being solid would cause more damage when crashed.
hey axel
just seen this so you may have already done the mod anyway..
Most parts & fastening type places sell those kinda machine bolts + nylocks ..even any good hobby shop will have them ( usually in the r/c airplanes sections ) names like du-bro and many others make ALL kinds of bolts + washers + nylocks that will fit the bill ..IF you get stuck with the coutersunk washers ..then use hexhead bolts + nylocks and plain flat washers ..since you DONT need to countersink the washers anyway ..BUT if you do want to and cant find em then a dremel tool will do the job well ..since its small enough to use a countersink bit in the collet ..
I can see the + side of doing this mod >> no more chasing runaway wheels and losing bearings ext ext….PROVIDED you realise that a VERY hard crash is likely to result in MORE damage ( like the tutorial says ) anyway ALL the best..
I have NO idea where in the world u are but if in australia try ANY model shops ..if ya wanna save money try coventrys ( not the ford car parts place ) the nuts & bolts specialists ..been there MANY times for special fittings for my giant scale planes and even the baja 5b modded to hell
Cheers
Gary
I HAVE DONE THIS AND LET ME TELL YOU THERE IS NO BETTER THING THEN NOT HAVING TO RUN AFTER WHEELS AND FOR THOSE WHO THINK IT MIGHT DO MORE HARM THEN GOOD WELL LET ME TELL YOU THAT I BASH MINE HARD AND STILL HAVE NOT BROKEN ANYTHING MAJOR PARTS