Thunder Valley Grand Prix Nov. 6th & 7th.
March 2, 2010 by fasteddy
Filed under Baja Racing, Events, News
Thunder Valley Grand Prix Nov. 6th & 7th. ((( WEATHER PERMITTING )))
There will be two days of racing.
Saturday Nov. 6th will be a 45 minute sprint race under the lights.
Sunday Nov. 7th will be a 2 hour Enduro. Mandatory driver change every 20 minutes.
Trucks race with Trucks
Buggy’s race with Buggy’s
This event will be based on a low point system.
1st Place = 1 point
2nd Place = 2 points
3rd Place = 3 points and so on.
This is a “TEAM EVENT” your team will be scored both days.
only 2 drivers per Team.
Sprint Race format.
Novices race Novices
Experts race Experts
Teams may have any combination of drivers 2 Experts , 2 Novices or 1 Expert & 1 Novice.
If your team consist of 1 Expert & 1 Novice you can earn a low score of 2 points total. Providing your team can post wins in each class.
If you choose to go with 2 Experts or 2 Novices the lowest score possible is 3 points. Providing you finish 1st & 2nd.
Enduro Format.
Teams must choose one vehicle from the previous day that will compete in the enduro. Chosen vehicles will have a small lead seal attached to the chassis. Same seal system used in NASCAR. This is to avoid teams from changing vehicles due to catastrophic failure.
There will be Trophy’s awarded to the top 3 finishers in each Class. Plus an overall Champion Team Trophy.
Motors —- Open
Tires — Trucks must run a Truck Tire.
Buggy’s must run a Buggy Tire.
Fuel Tanks — No extra fuel tanks
ALL VEHICLES MUST RUN A “HPI STOCK CAN” No Modifications, No Headers, No Exceptions
Saturday Nov. 6th
Gates open @ 11:00 am
Practice from 11:00 – 3 pm
First Race 4 pm
Sunday Nov. 7th
First Race 10 am
Entry fee $100.00 per team
If you plan to attend this race please E-mail us at…. info@thundervalleyrcpark.com
Low car count may result in combining of classes. ie. Buggy expert and Buggy novice may run together, same goes for the trucks or cancelation of event.
Overnight camping available for $10.00
If you have a question call or E-Mail me. I will not answer any question on the forums.
If you like to sponsor this event call or E-Mail.
Thanks,
John
(707) 349-7869
E-Mail — info@thundervalleyrcpark.com
DDM Rear Dominator Pipe V2 Install Video
New from DDM! Developed through months of extensive in-house testing and prototyping, and custom-designed for maximum RC performance, these new Dominator® V2 pipes for your HPI Baja 5b gas buggy will give you the power you crave. Gives snappy low-end response, yet still offers unmatched top-end performance!
The DDM Dominator® pipe features top-quality steel alloy construction, flexible header coupling, ultra-sturdy adjustable mounting system, and jaw-dropping high polish show chrome finish. Includes FREE custom X-port finned exhaust spacer for improved exhaust header cooling and to help keep the pipe clear of any frame parts! The pipe passes safely through the rear frame “box” – this design is to allow the pipe to be sufficiently wide to allow for MAXIMUM performance, while still being VERY well protected – pipe is unlikely to be exposed in a rollover. Includes genuine Zenoah exhaust gaskets and mounting hardware.
Weight is approx 1.65 pounds. Pipe is covered by lifetime warranty against manufacturing defects from DDM. Fits Zenoah and Chung Yang engines. Fits the stock 23cc “Fuelie” engine on the HPI Baja 5b, and the stock 26cc engine on the Baja 5b SS. Also fits the 5T Truck. Also fits all aftermarket and modified engines.
Available in Black and Chrome
http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.88…t.A/id.5995/.f
http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.88…t.A/id.6071/.f
Kick back and enjoy.
Dont forget to order one up if you havent already, its a Worthy upgrade for any Baja be it the SS, RTR, 2.0, or Baja 5T.
| YouTube – DDM Dominator® V2 Pipe Install | |
DDM Dominator® V2 Pipe Review
May 28, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Product Reviews
New from DDM! Developed through months of extensive in-house testing and prototyping, and custom-designed for maximum RC performance, these new Dominator® V2 pipes for your HPI Baja 5b gas buggy will give you the power you crave. Gives snappy low-end response, yet still offers unmatched top-end performance!
The DDM Dominator® pipe features top-quality steel alloy construction, flexible header coupling, ultra-sturdy adjustable mounting system, and jaw-dropping high polish show chrome finish. Includes FREE custom X-port finned exhaust spacer for improved exhaust header cooling and to help keep the pipe clear of any frame parts! The pipe passes safely through the rear frame “box” – this design is to allow the pipe to be sufficiently wide to allow for MAXIMUM performance, while still being VERY well protected – pipe is unlikely to be exposed in a rollover. Includes genuine Zenoah exhaust gaskets and mounting hardware.
Weight is approx 1.65 pounds. Pipe is covered by lifetime warranty against manufacturing defects from DDM. Fits Zenoah and Chung Yang engines. Fits the stock 23cc “Fuelie” engine on the HPI Baja 5b, and the stock 26cc engine on the Baja 5b SS. Also fits the 5T Truck. Also fits all aftermarket and modified engines.
Available in Black and Chrome
http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.88…t.A/id.5995/.f
http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.88…t.A/id.6071/.f
| YouTube – DDM Dominator® V2 Pipe Review | |
No Limit R/C world finals at Digger’s Dungeon May 22nd-24th
March 23, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Organized Bashing
The 2009 No Limit R/C world finals at Digger’s Dungeon will be May 22nd-24th in Poplar Branch, NC. This is the biggest RC Monster truck event in the world, held at the largest full size monster truck race shop and home to the famous Gravedigger.
New for 2009 is large scale racing!!
Fast Eddy and many other large scale sponsors will be sending prizes and attending.
Entry fee is $35 per entry and registration open now at: www.nolimitrc.com
Justin
No Limit R/C
www.nolimitrc.com
Live Broadcast!! AutoCross Racing
Live web cam works with any browser with the Flash plugin installed.
Please note that all webcams are broadcast live and could have some offensive images and audio. If you might be offended don’t watch. PG-13
Team FastEddy Baja Stand for the Baja 5B, SS, 5T, 5SC
February 24, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Featured, New Product Releases
After Many months of development we have released our Baja Stand.
It was conceived with the help of Royce Van Bebber from VR Racing. After using all the different stands on the market we boiled it down to include all the feature we found most useful and added several more feature that were lacking in other stands on the market.
The Team FastEddy VR Baja Stand Is a sound investment for any Baja owner.
- Made from 14 gauge cold rolled steel. Its as stout as they come
- Powder coated silver. The lighter color allows you to see parts in the parts tray
- 4 built in parts and tool trays. Built into the base there are no additional parts to assemble. 4 section will help keep things organized.
- Universal top plate. Jut put your Baja on the top. No more having to look and see what direction to point the top and having to find the location tabs like other stands use. Simply just put your rig on the stand.
- Swivel lock. Use the Thumb screws to lock the top plate anywhere along its 360 degrees rotation. You can lock it down or allow it to swivel your choice.
- Add a longer pole to increase the height of your stand. The pole is a standard 1 inch pipe that is easily found at any hardware store. The stand is stable up to 3.5′.
- The design is simple. There are 3 main parts; Base, top, and pole. There are no washers to loose out in the field or bushings to brake or loose. The stand brakes down into 2 components and is easily transported.
- Stand comes fully assembled and ready to use.
Stands are shipping out to the distributors in the morning and will be available on their sites by Feb-27
MSRP:179.00
Expected street price: 159-165.00
HPI Baja Comparison Chart 5B 2.0 – 5B SS – Baja 5T
February 20, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Available Baja Models, Featured
Comparison Chart for the HPI Baja 5B 2.0 – 5B SS – Baja 5T
Information compliments of HPI Europe
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Engine Mesh Mod Tutorial
| Addition of mesh to lower engine intakes to prevent debris / stones etc entering flywheel area and damaging fins. You can find a metal screen mesh material at any good hardware store.
Tutorial donated by: http://formulabaja.com/ |
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| Mesh addition to pull start grille | |
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RPM Suspension Arm FAQ
The amount of questions that get asked about the RPM arms is really amazing.
Written by: tetsulo
General Information
- One set is will do one side of a vehicle (Front or Rear)There is no difference between right or left.
- To completely outfit a vehicle you need to order two sets of fronts and two sets of rear’s.
- The RPM Part #’s 82251 (Rear White) and 82141 (Front white) can be died using RIT Fabric Dye or equivalent.
RPM REARS
- Some peoples rear arms line up fine, other peoples don’t.
- When they don’t line up they seem to be commonly about 1/8″ off and put stress on the turnbuckle, ball end and rear upright.
- Regardless of the alignment issue, the new arms are much stiffer and cause aftermarket and factory turnbuckles to snap — often leaving a portion threaded in the upper a arm. Easiest way to remove is use a dremel cutting wheel and notch the broken piece enough to allow a flat head screwdriver to remove it.
- People are making spacers using aluminum or steel tubing and nuts, or threaded aluminum tube to spread the load across the faces of the upper a arm and ball end. I have seen aluminum tubing up to 1/2″ in diameter. People doing these mods seem to be posting positive results. (12mm is factory camber settings)
RPM FRONTS
- I haven’t seen one bad review or comment about fitment or performance.
- Lots of E-Clip eliminator mods don’t work properly cause the material around the lower ball is thicker. Basically you have to remove the E Clip ring to free up enough space to get something to work OR you have file down the head of the bolt.
- The upper arms eliminate the plastic C-Clip — this means that mods like using an additional factory brace at the back of the bulkhead doesn’t work without shaving down either the bulkhead or the suspension arms. I believe this is also the reason why the Modifier front lights don’t work — but I don’t own them so I can’t confirm.
Pictures of the brace mod and arm mod can be found here:
http://www.hpibajaforum.com/forum/sh…ht=rpm+tetsulo
Carb tuning instructions and guidelines (By Doug @ ESP)
With more people coming into the RC engine, so does the amount of lean seizures. I rewrote my old instructions to what I think is easier to understand. There are other methods people use, but knowing how fast a lean RC engine can seize at higher RPM, I can’t think of a safer, in the field, way of tuning the H jet for that day.
CARB TUNING FOR GAS RC ENGINES
Thank you for buying A ESP engine. This is a guide only. ESP will not be responsible for failures unless it is the fault of ESP workmanship.
Keep in mind that the low speed carb jet screw flows fuel from zero to about 1/3rd throttle opening. The high speed jets starts flowing from about 1/3rd throttle open to full throttle. Both jets flow fuel above 1/3rd throttle.
Set the high speed jet at 2 turns out from bottom to start. Set the low speed jet at about 1&½ turns out and set the idle up for easier first time starting. Warm the engine on the stand for a few min, rev the engine on the stand a bit while rough setting the low speed jet and idle, for idle to rev throttle response. Close the low speed too far, and the idle goes up and starts vibrating from a lean condition. Open the low to far and the engine will run rich and die. Stay on the rich side, but make sure throttle response from idle is good. Typically, you will end up with a L jet at 1&1/8th to 1&1/2 out. Continue to rev the engine for a few minutes above half throttle, but not holding it in any one position, to run the engine with the high speed jet flowing. Shut it down, and check the plug color. The plug should be a dark color like a dark brown or black. The rich settings we start with could possibly foul a spark plug, so you might want to have a new plug or two on hand for tuning. This dark plug color is good for now, it means we are getting plenty of fuel–at least on the stand.
The H speed jet is critical, and a RC engine can seize in seconds if the fuel/air mixture is lean at high rpm. Because of this, we creep up on high rpm one run at a time, checking the plug for each higher RPM run.
- With the H speed screw out 2 full turns, run the buggy 30 seconds at a time at about 8,000 to 9,000 rpm (or where your clutch is just engaged). Keep running the buggy at the low RPM until the plug starts building up some dark color. We will need deposit built up on the plug to burn off for “reading the plug”, when we start leaning out the carb H jet later.
- The plug should stay dark for the rest of this test, until we start adjusting the H screw more lean after we get to full throttle tests. We are now going to raise RPM approx 1000 rpm for 30 seconds for each run, and check the plug after each run to make sure it is still dark. You should have about 10 increments of 1000 rpm from clutch engagement, to full throttle, but the more increments you use, (less RPM rise for each run), the safer you will be. If, while your doing the runs, and getting higher in the rpm, you start seeing the deposit burning off the plug to a brown or lighter color, you have a problem with your fuel system (bad carb, fuel filters, fuel lines) or a possible air leak that you have to fix before you can continue. You may have just saved your engine from a lean seizure.
- When you get to 30 sec full throttle runs with a dark plug, now it is time to start leaning out the H jet. After a full throttle run, check the plug, and it should still be dark with the H screw 2 full turns out. Turn in the screw 1/16th at a time, and continue doing full throttle runs, plug checks, and H screw carb adjustments, until the plug is a brown paper bag color. Do one or two full throttle runs to make sure the plug does not get any lighter. Then fine tune the low speed jet for the best hole shot, and your done. It is a good idea to write down the amount of turns you are at when done, for a reference.
Note, many carb bolts are too long. If your long carb bolts (that hold on the filter, and go through the carb, into the intake manifold), reach all the way through your intake manifold, you will have to shorten the bolts, or risk a damaged cylinder and air leak, possibly seizing the engine.
To help insure you don’t seize your engine due to a carb failure or clogged fuel filters, etc (something other than your set screws), it is a good idea to do a few increments and plug checks every time you take out the machine. Jet richer on cold days, and always re jet for any modification you may make. There is no such thing as “stock settings”, jet it yourself from scratch, or risk seizing the engine.
Doug @ ESP
(616) 458-8103 (Eastern standard time zone) Earthsurferfun@yahoo.com
What should my first Hop-Ups be?
Now that you have a Baja, it doesn’t mater what model you are probably wanting to get some hop-ups for it. Its only natural to want to personalize your new rig. There are a few items that we believe to be “Must Have” Items. They aren’t “Bling” items but are items that will help protect your Baja and insure that it will withstand the test of time.
Must have items:
- Outerwears Pill start cover
- Outerwears Air filter cover
- Fuel filter.
- Ratio Rite measuring cup
Optional Items but worth looking at for your first purchases:
- Axel Extenders
- Clutch / wheel shims
- Clutch carrier
Pull start and Airfilter covers will keep the dust, sand, grass, and dirt out of the covered parts. Dirt in the carb is the #1 reason for engine failure. The pull start will fail quickly is not properly protected. If nothing else get these two items. It will be the best money spent.
An external fuel filter will keep the crud out of your engine. The Baja has an internal “Clunk” style filter but it doesn’t always catch everything. This is a cheap and easy part to get and will again, help insure that you are protected. When you go to get one, make sure it specifically states that its for GASOLINE.
A Measuring cup designed for mixing fuel and oil will help make sure you are getting the proper mixture. Performance issues and blown engines can the result of errors in mixing your fuel and oil.
Axel extenders will help stabilize your new ride. If your driving style finds you on your lid often, look into a set of extenders. You will be amazed at the big difference they make. Several companies offer them. The most popular ones are made by DarkSoul Racing but there are several other companies to choose from.
Clutch and wheel shims are a needed item. From the factory or during your build you will notice a lot of in and out play in your wheel hubs. Installing the proper thickness shims will get rid of this “Slop” In return, your bearings will last longer and you will reduce C-Clip failure on the front hubs. The stock clutch bell has a lot of “Slop In it. Shimming the bell will reduce all sorts of slop related issues. The same shim size is used in both places. HPI offers the proper size shim in one thickness and Team FastEddy offers a Shim Kit that includes several different thicknesses to get everything just right.
The stock clutch carrier will be fine for a while. Its made of plastic and can quickly distort from the heat and torque. This will cause many issues down the line including melted spur gears, broken pinion bolts, and quickly trashed bearings. An alloy holder is a great solution to this. HPI had their “HD” carrier that includes larger bearings, Turtle Racing has an enclosed HD Clutch System that is close to bullet proof. There are others on the market as well, Do some research and choose one that you like.
Once you have these “Essential” items covered its time to go have some fun and know that you have made you rig more “Solid” and dependable.
Australia Dune video From: Monkeymagic
February 8, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Baja Videos
RCX Photos 2008
February 7, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Baja Photos, Other RC & Motor Sports Events
Baja 5T Hill Climb By Rallyette
February 6, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Baja Videos
Backflip Directors Cut by Rallyette
February 6, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Baja Videos
Baja Cross By Rallyette
February 6, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Baja Videos
Phat Track BajaCross from Protecta Pictures on Vimeo.
RAMS Club Baja Auto Cross (Nor-Cal) Track info
February 6, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Baja Racing
2009 Schedule:
- February 15th:
- March 15th
- April 19th
- May 17th
- June 7th
- July 19th
- August 16th
- September 2Oth
- October l8th
- RAMS 5th scale will add Autocross as a points event. This will be an open class so everyone can race what they have (within reason). We will have some restrictions on noise (mufflers and we do have a sound meter) and safety items (bumpers for example). Since this is a member driven class, changes can be made as needed. Ted and Frank will be the main people for this class.
- We normally race on the 3rd Sunday. Feb is a warm up race (no points) and March to Oct are points races (8 with 2 throw-outs).
- The only exception is June where we move to the 1st Sunday due to Father’s Day. If we get rained out, we will try to reschedule.
- Practice shall be: 10 minutes Autocross, 10 minutes STC/F1, 20 minutes Autocross, and 20 minutes STC/F1
- Qualifying is two rounds of 10 minute racing. We will try to keep the number of cars to less than 7 for the qualifying.
- Mains will be 20 minutes in the beginning, we will let the group decide if a 30 minute main is better as the season progresses. Normally a 10 car field with one bump-up from the earlier race.
- Continue to use MMR Track Grip
- RAMS is a non-profit corporation that strives to break even each year. We have to pay for: the college each time we set foot on the parking lot, trailer parking, repair and painting the boards, stuff we spray on the ground… So what money we do collect goes to the race program. In addition we count on the membership contributing their time and energy to make the racing fun, competitive, and exciting for everyone.
5th scale race fees for 2009
- RAMS membership is $30 (for the 2009 race season)
- ROAR membership is $30 (1 year for joining)
- Member Race fee from $20 to $25
- Non-member race fee from $25 to $30
- NATC from $30 to $35
- No second class fee (encourage drivers to drive more)
Remove the play in your spurr gear.
January 26, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Tips & Tricks
Use FastEddy Clutch/Wheel bearing shim kit to eliminate any side play of the spur gear.
Place the proper amount of shims behind you spurr to remove the front to back play. (same as shimming front axe, or clutch bell)
Submitted by:
franky
To submit a “Quick Tip” Please visit:
HPIBajaTutorials.com
Help prevent tire cuts and tears.
January 26, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Tips & Tricks
Sand the sharp edges of the wheel and bead rings in any areas that contact the rubber of the tire. This will help prevent cuts and tears and will ensure you get the longest life from your purchase.
Submitted by:
Hostile Racing Products
To submit a “Quick Tip” Please visit:
HPIBajaTutorials.com
Prevent your Baja brakes from dragging.
January 26, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Tips & Tricks
To prevent brake drag, take the spring out of a click actuated writing pen, cut it into three equal pieces, and install one on each of the two brake shaft pins as shown below (3rd piece not needed but put it in your tool box in case you loose one):
Submitted by:
HarleyDan
To submit a “Quick Tip” Please visit:
HPIBajaTutorials.com
Better Braking on your Baja
January 26, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Tips & Tricks
The best way to get better brakes is to use fuel tubing instead of the spring that come stock on the Baja Linkage. Replace the spring with fuel tubing and you will instantly better brakes.
Submitted by:
CrazyAce63
To submit a “Quick Tip” Please visit:
HPIBajaTutorials.com
Make servicing the air filter much easier
To make servicing the air filter much easier, install a quick release cage mechanism. There are severl different mods or cage releases you can use.
Submitted by:
HarleyDan
To submit a “Quick Tip” Please visit:
HPIBajaTutorials.com
Build a better shock.
January 26, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Tips & Tricks
To help the seals on your shocks work better use Green Slime on the o-rings and shafts when you are putting your shocks together you are less likely to have any leaks this way. This will also help you from tearing an o-ring with the threads on your shock shaft.
Submitted by:
voltmeter101
To submit a “Quick Tip” Please visit:
HPIBajaTutorials.com
Easily remove exhaust bolts.
January 26, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Tips & Tricks
Submitted by:
GlockZilla
To submit a “Quick Tip” Please visit:
HPIBajaTutorials.com
Keep screws from vibrating out.
January 26, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Tips & Tricks
Use fuel tubing on the screws that come through the rear of shock braces to keep from vibrating out.
I have used both loctites but this works better.
NEVER vibrated out on me with this setup..
Submitted by:
Animal454
To submit a “Quick Tip” Please visit:
HPIBajaTutorials.com
Removing a tight wheel nut.
January 26, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Tips & Tricks
One easy way to remove a tight wheel nut is ,
Have the Baja on the ground, rest your left knee (if right handed) on the wheel/tire and use both hands on the wheel wrench.
Submitted by:
IIlusionSS
To submit a “Quick Tip” Please visit:
HPIBajaTutorials.com
Quickly remove you Elcon or Lauterbach clutch
January 26, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Tips & Tricks
A quick and easy way to remove you elcon or lauterbach clutch. all you need is a piston lock, a pair of needle nose pliers, and a screwdriver.
These clutches use the taper to lock onto the crankshaft. To remove them follow these simple steps.
- Remove the spark plug and install the piston stopper
- Insert the tips of the neddle nose pliers into a pair of the holes directly opposite from each other on the face of the clutch. You can do this on both clutches
- Insert a screwdriver between the plier tips and use it as a lever
- Wrench on the screwdriver. All you need to do is break the taper lock. After you do that the clutch falls off.
This is a quick and dirty way to remove these clutches. On the elcon clutch be careful not to tweak the thin cover plate with the tips of the pliers.
Submitted by:
Brice Arnold
To submit a “Quick Tip” Please visit:
HPIBajaTutorials.com
Replace that pesky carburetor linkage screw.
January 26, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Tips & Tricks
The Phillips head screw that is used to hold the linkage to the carb is a pain in the butt get in and out.
You can replace this screw with a bead lock screw.
Depending on what carb you have, you may need to use a little washer if the screw is to long.
Now its a alen head and will stay on your driver so you can easily get it in and out.
No more worries about striping the head out either.
Submitted by:
FastEddy
To submit a “Quick Tip” Please visit:
HPIBajaTutorials.com
Why glue and tape my foam inserts and tires?
There are more ways to do this then there are people doing it as well as ways no one has thought of yet. Yes, there is so much information out there that its confusing. Lets back up a step and look at the issues involved so you can make an informed decision on how to move forward.
Attaching the foams to the wheels:
Centrifugal force causes the foam to expand. The foam inserts act like air in a car tire to keep the tire on the road as well as giving the tire a cushion when pressed on. As the wheel turns faster the foams will expand changing the properties to be different then they were intended to be. Attaching the foams to the tire will help to eliminate half this problem. The other issue is having the foams move around inside the tire rotating and causing them to wear much quicker.
Attaching the foams to the wheel can be achieved in several ways. I use a rubberized CA glue designed to mount tires to wheels in the RC industry. There are many different glues available. Look at the properties of the glue and pick one. You mentioned Velcro, Hmm… haven’t heard of this one yet but I dont see why it woudnt work as long as there is enough to keep the entire foam secure to the wheel and that the glue on the velcro stayed attached to the foam. Only issue I see is what a pain in the ass its going to be to get them on strait.
Second foam issue is that once attached to the wheel the foam itself can expand during use and tear itself apart. For this people will use tape around the outside of the foam to help hold it together and to keep it from expanding. Choosing a good tape is the secret. You need a tape that will not easily stretch. A GOOD quality duct tale or strapping tape is what seems to work best. This is tape that had strings in it to help it from stretching while its under a load. I like to get a 3-4 inch wide tape that will cove most of the foam at one time rather then using 2 thinner strips however either will work.
Ballooning tires:
This is also an issue. the centrifugal force causes the tire to get larger as they turn faster. This can cause several issues one of them being that they can pull the lugs out of the bead locks. It can be addressed the same as the foam by taping the inside of the tire much the same as we did the outside of the foams.
Beads pulling out of the bead locks:
Once you have minimized the the tire and foam expansion this will also minimize the chances of the beads pulling out of the locks. Now we need to look at other reasons this may happen. The tile is held in by a bead lock that captures the tire mounting lugs in between the wheel and the lock. Anything other then a tight lock will give the opportunity for the bead to pull out. When assembling the bead locks its important to make sure that you tighten the screws down properly but to not over tighten them. The screws will easily strip out the plastic and allow for them to pull out. Its a delicate balance to get them tight but not to damage the wheels.Take your time, look and feel whats going on and you will be fine. Another fix for this is to get longer screws for the fronts and to put a nut on the inside. If your after a more permanent solution you can use the rubberized tire glue and glue the bead lugs onto the wheels then glue the bead locks onto the wheel sandwiching them followed up with the screws or screws and nuts.
How do I un-flood my engine?
The easiest and fastest way is to do the following:
- Remove the spark plug
- Turn your Baja upside down.
- While its upside down, pull the starter cord several times. (10-20)
- Turn your Baja back over
- Wipe off the wet tip of the spark plug
- Re-install the spark plug.
You will want to do this in an open and properly ventilated place. There may be a good amount of fuel in the engine and it will come out with force when you pull the starter cord. We recommend that you use protective gear such as eye and skin protection. Do not look down the spark plug hole while pulling the starter cord.
If you would like more information or to ask question about this topic, please visit our forum.
www.HPIBajaTurorials.com
Why do I keep burning out my throttle servo?
The Baja stock radio has a built in failsafe. What this does is to apply the brake when the radio signal is lost. If you have burned out your throttle servo on more than one occasion chances are that you have turned off your transmitter and did nit turn off the power switch on your Baja or that you are not powering on and off in the proper sequence.
The proper power ON procedure is as follows:
- Turn your Transmitter first. Wait 5-10 seconds.
- Turn on the power switch located on your Baja
The proper power OFF procedure is as follows:
- Turn OFF the power switch located on your Baja
- Turn OFF your Transmitter power.
If you would like more information or to ask question about this topic, please visit our forum.
www.HPIBajaTurorials.com
What is the proper fuel to oil mixtire?
This is a controversial topic. Depending on who you ask, you will get several different answers.
HPI recommends a fuel to oil ratio of:
- 25:1 (25 units of fuel to 1 unit of oil.)
This is a great place to start. Using the HPI oil that comes with your Baja mixed at 25:1 will keep you safe. It’s recommended that you use this for the first gallon of fuel during the engine break-in process.
After the first gallon, if you’re confident in your tuning skills you should be fine by leaning out your oil and running 32:1. If you decide to use synthetic oil after the break-in period, 32:1 seems to be a good mixture.
If you would like more information or to ask question about this topic, please visit our forum.
www.HPIBajaTurorials.com
What octane fuel should I use?
Octane ratings on gasoline vary depending on where you live. Each country will measure it differently.
HPI recommends using a gasoline with the octane rating of:
- (US) 87-93
- (Europe-Asia) 92-98
Most people will find this at their gas pump marked as “Regular”. If this is not available, a “Premium” or “High Test” can be used without harming your engine. There is no need nor will you get better performance by using a higher octane rated fuel in your stock CY engine.
If you would like more information or to ask question about this topic, please visit our forum.
www.HPIBajaTurorials.com
What settings do I use to charge my battery?
The first thing you need to do is to look at your battery and collect the following information:
- Battery Technology. Nichel Metal Hydride, Nicad, Lipo?
- How many milliamps is your battery?
Most chargers will have settings for the “Kind” of battery you are using. A majority of the battery packs used in the Baja are Nichel Metal Hydride (NmH) If your charger has a setting for this, set it to the kind of battery you have installed. All the new Baja kits have NmH batteries however some of the original RTRs did use Nicads. Double check and make the proper adjustments toy your charger.
Many chargers will have a setting for the Milliamps. Most of the Baja 5B RTRs and the 5Ts come with a 3000 ma battery installed. Its a good thing to check this before charging just to be sure. If you have an aftermarket battery look to see the Ma rating and remember what it is. If your charger has a setting for the Milliamps, go ahead and set it to match the battery you have. Some chargers do not have a setting for this and will auto detect this.
Your battery pack is a 5 cell battery pack If your charger has a setting for this you will set it to 5 cells.
Now the fun part. How many Amps do you set your charger to? This topic is a never ending debate. I will explain briefly. Rule of thumb is to not charge the battery over 1C. Keeping it simple this means if your battery is 3000ma dont charge it over 3amps. If it is a 4000 ma pack do not charge it over 4amps. Your standard choices are 1amp, 2amps, and 3 amps. The higher the number the shorter time it will take to fully charge. The lower the number, the easier it is on the battery but will take longer. Take your pick on the amps to set your charger at but unless you know more about all this stuff, doent exceed the 1C rule of thumb.
If you would like more information or to ask question about this topic, please visit our forum.
What is a good battery charger to get?
The charger that comes with your Baja 5B RTR or 5T is an “Overnight Charger”. It will work just fine to get you going. As its name states, you will need to plug your battery in overnight or for MANY hours to have it fully charged. If it is left plugged in to long, you can run the risk of damaging your battery and possible causing it to overheat and cause a fire. If you choose to use it, check it often and do not leave unattended.
In the long run getting a battery charger that uses “Peak Detection” is much faster and safer then using the stock charger. Rather then charging by time, it will detect when the battery is fully charged and either shut off or enter into a trickle charge to keep the battery topped off. Once the charger indicates that the battery is fully charged you can be assured that you will not get a runaway due to a low battery. When using an overnight charger, you have no easy way of knowing if your battery is fully charged.
There are many different peak detection chargers available in many different price ranges. Choose a charger that fits your budget and has the bells and whistles you would like. Here is a small list of things you will want to think about before buying a charger.
- Is it a peak detect charger.
- AC or DC. Will you be using this charger only at home or out in the field.
- Amp settings. The higher the amp setting the faster the charge. 1amp, 2amp, 3amp are the most common.
- Will you be using this charger for other RCs. Look to see the requirements of your other batteries.
- Does the charger specify Nickel Metal Hydride. This is the most common battery that is used in the Baja
- Will it charge a 5 cell Sub C battery pack. This is the most common battery that is used in the Baja
If you would like more information or to ask question about this topic, please visit our forum.
HPI Baja Manuals
January 20, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Baja Manuals
Manuals Courtesy of HPI Racing
Manuals are in .pdf format.
You must have Adobe Acrobat reader installed to view.
If you do not currently have it installed its free and available for download.
Download Adobe Acrobat Reader
- HPI Baja 5B RTR Manual (Click here to Download)
- HPI Baja 5B SS Manual (Click here to Download)
- HPI Baja 5T Manual (Click here to Download)
HPI Baja 5B (RTR)
January 20, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Available Baja Models
HPI’s new giant 2WD Baja 5B buggy will take RC Cars to a new dimension!
The Baja 5B is a rear wheel drive 1/5th scale off-road buggy that is nearly 32″ in length! Its design is revolutionary for large scale RC Cars, following the style of classic Baja buggies with long suspension arms for great ground clearance and large suspension travel. The big size allows the Baja 5B to go where smaller buggies can’t and makes the Baja 5B’s driving experience as close as you can get to the real thing.
The Baja 5B is big, but coming as a “Ready To Run” car and powered by standard gasoline it can’t be easier to get ready for action. Everything is included in the kit – 1. Preassembled Baja 5B chassis, 2. Prepainted Baja body shell, 3. Preinstalled high quality FM radio gear with built in fail safe, 6V receiver pack and charger. 4. Pre installed massive 23cc gasoline engine providing plenty of power. All you need to do is fill up with standard gasoline and some oil, and off you go!
The innovative design of the Baja 5B has been developed and tested by HPI’s designers over the last 18 months.
Baja 5B Specifications:
Chassis
- Overall Length: 32 in 817mm
- Height: 10 in 255mm
- Width: Front 18 in 460mm / Rear 19 in 480mm
- Tire Track: Front 15.5 in 395mm/ Rear 15.75 in 400mm
- Wheelbase: 22.5 in 570mm
- Ride height: 3 in 76mm s
- Suspension travel: Front 3.74 in 95mm / Rear 4 in 100mm
- Weight: 21.3lb
- Camber: Adjustable front with shims rear with screw
- Front caster: Adjustable with shim 22 / 25.5* / 29 degrees (* stock)
- Toe-in: Adjustable front with tie rod rear with shims 2 / 3* / 4 degree each side (* stock)
- Aircraft aluminum 6061 T6 monocoque chassis
- Double wishbone suspension with adjustable roll center F/R
- Twin plate ventilated disk brake
- Drive system: HD metal gears with sealed gear box (8.382:1 gear ratio)
- Diff: Viscous Torque control with 4 pinion gears sealed diff case with silicone oil
- Shock absorber: 5 position adjustable dampening and fully adjustable coil over spring
- Wheel type: 3 pcs with high impact nylon material
Engine
- 2 cycle piston valve gasoline engine
- Cooling system: Air cooled
- Displacement: 23cc
- Maximum output: 2 horsepower 2.4ps
- Fuel: Pre-mixed fuel, 25 (Gasoline) : 1 (High grade 2 cycle engine oil)
- Starter: Recoil Starter
Radio
- FM radio system with fail safe system
- Steering servo: Hi torque water resistant 25kg.cm with Speed 0.16sec/60 degree
- Throttle servo: Hi torque water resistant 6kg.cm with Speed 0.16sec/60 degree
- Receiver battery: 6V rechargeable NiCad battery
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| Roll cage, radio box, bodyshell, wing, undertray, gear case all mounted with clips for easy maintenance | Easy off roll cage | Easy off water resistant radio box | Ventilated dual disk brake |
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| Automatic long life centrifugal clutch, “rev & go” | Rubber gater protects drive shafts | Suspension adjustable with shims | Quick access gear box protection |
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| Adjustable rear wing | Oversized front steering hub | Adjustable rear hub | |
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| Rear exhaust | Dual rate springs for optimal damping | Protected upper shock mounts | Protected lower shock mounts |
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| Waterproof radio box… | …with rubber caps for charging jack and crystal | Rechargeable receiver pack and FM fail safe receiver inside the radio box | Rubber protected switch |
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| Easy removal of the radio box with body clips | Strong U-shape aluminum chassis | Rear plastic under body to protect the aluminum chassis | |
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| Large air filter | Convenient engine stop button | Viscous torque control differential | Adjustable turn buckle and oversized ball end |
HPI Baja 5B SS
January 20, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Available Baja Models
HPI’s Baja 5B SS has won RC Car Action’s 2008 Editor’s Choice Car of the Year! Look for the article in the upcoming Car Action magazine as well as hpiracing.com!
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The 1/5th scale Baja 5B RWD desert racing buggy has been a huge success with RC fans, racers and journalists, and Baja owners have been extremely happy with the racing prowess, durability and qualities of the Baja 5B buggy. Now, HPI is proud to announce the Baja SS, a full-option Baja kit that you assemble yourself, loaded with tons of hop-ups that enhance the speed and power of the Baja 5B buggy, improve its durability even further, and provide totally sweet custom looks!
The Baja SS follows the HPI innovation of upgraded ‘Super Sport’ models that feature kit versions of popular HPI RTR models, with additional option parts added to enhance the enjoyment of your kit. A long list of option parts is included with the SS version of the Baja 5B. As you build the kit, you add in the options that come in the box, and add your own radio gear (receiver, throttle servo, and receiver battery).
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At the heart of the Baja SS is the #15403 Fuelie 26S 26cc engine, a tougher, stronger and more powerful engine than the standard 23cc Fuelie engine in the Baja 5B RTR buggy. With more displacement you get increased low-end grunt, more acceleration and huge top-end speed! The Fuelie 26S is a 2-stroke engine powered by regular pump petrol that is mixed with 2-stroke engine oil, so the running cost of the engine is extremely low when compared to any normal nitro powered glow engine. You’ll spend just pennies per tank on fuel!
To handle the extra horsepower of the Fuelie 26S, the drivetrain of the Baja SS is boosted with specially designed option parts that can handle the power increase. Providing a boost of extra power is the #86690 Aluminum Tuned Pipe, which is designed just for the 26cc engine and gives even more acceleration power to the Baja SS. The #15448 8000 RPM Clutch lets the engine rev up to a high RPM before engaging the drivetrain, giving you lightning-fast acceleration off the starting line and out of every corner. Protecting the differential is the #87568 Aluminum Alloy Diff Case, giving protection from the extreme strength of the engine. Finally, the #86610 Heavy Duty Rear Dogbones get the power from the diff to the rear wheels with chunky steel driveshafts and jointed rubber boots for minimal loss of power.
Kit Version
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#15403 Fuelie 26S 26cc Engine
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#15448 8000 RPM Clutch
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#86690 Aluminum Tuned Pipe
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Build your own Baja racing buggy from parts that come in the box. Add in your own radio gear for a fully customized Baja experience! Steering servo with metal gears is included.
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You’ll get more power, increased torque and more speed than 23cc engine. Extra horsepower gives you the grunt to get over and through anything in your way!
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Launches the Baja 5B at higher RPM for more punch off the line and out of low-speed corners.
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Tuned for increased power and quicker acceleration. The kit also includes the stock muffler for quieter operation.
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#80584 Metal Gear Steering
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#3272 Heavy Duty Beadlocks
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#86618 Front & Rear Sway Bars
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#87551 New Rear Shock Tower Brace
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Tough metal gears for extra durability and reliable steering in all conditions and at all speeds
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Reinforced design increases durability of the wheels and tires. Protects the sidewalls of your tires in hard cornering maneuvers.
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Improves handling and gives quicker steering response.
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Relocates shocks for increased rear suspension travel for better traction and braking on rough ground.
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#87561 & #87562 VVC/HD Pro Shock Set
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#86610 Heavy Duty Rear Dogbones
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#87568 Aluminum Alloy Diff Case
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New design VVC/HD shocks for improved handling over rough terrain. Large diameter shock shafts for increased durability.
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Metal construction for extra durability with high horsepower engines like the Fuelie 26S. Features rubber boots at both ends to keep dirt and rocks out of the joints
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For increased drivetrain durability and extended time between maintenance and rebuilds. Perfect for the high output 26S Engine!
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Crystal clear tough polycarbonate is ready for custom paint. Pre-cut to make painting and installation quick and easy. Also comes with pre-cut vinyl decals and protective overspray film.
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#87477 Gunmetal Main Chassis
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Orange Anodized SS Parts
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Unique customized looks with a gunmetal-anodized 6061 T6 aluminum monocoque chassis. Super-rigid for supreme performance, it also looks amazing under the bodyshell!
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From the shock caps to the engine plate and chassis braces, you can see lightweight anodized aircraft aluminum 6061 T6 parts that highlight the incomparable looks of the Baja SS chassis.
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Kit Version
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#15403 Fuelie 26S 26cc Engine
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#15448 8000 RPM Clutch
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#86690 Aluminum Tuned Pipe
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Build your own Baja racing buggy from parts that come in the box. Add in your own radio gear for a fully customized Baja experience! Steering servo with metal gears is included.
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You’ll get more power, increased torque and more speed than 23cc engine. Extra horsepower gives you the grunt to get over and through anything in your way!
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Launches the Baja 5B at higher RPM for more punch off the line and out of low-speed corners.
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Tuned for increased power and quicker acceleration. The kit also includes the stock muffler for quieter operation.
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#80584 Metal Gear Steering
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#3272 Heavy Duty Beadlocks
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#86618 Front & Rear Sway Bars
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#87551 New Rear Shock Tower Brace
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Tough metal gears for extra durability and reliable steering in all conditions and at all speeds
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Reinforced design increases durability of the wheels and tires. Protects the sidewalls of your tires in hard cornering maneuvers.
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Improves handling and gives quicker steering response.
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Relocates shocks for increased rear suspension travel for better traction and braking on rough ground.
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#87561 & #87562 VVC/HD Pro Shock Set
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#86610 Heavy Duty Rear Dogbones
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#87568 Aluminum Alloy Diff Case
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New design VVC/HD shocks for improved handling over rough terrain. Large diameter shock shafts for increased durability.
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Metal construction for extra durability with high horsepower engines like the Fuelie 26S. Features rubber boots at both ends to keep dirt and rocks out of the joints
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For increased drivetrain durability and extended time between maintenance and rebuilds. Perfect for the high output 26S Engine!
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Crystal clear tough polycarbonate is ready for custom paint. Pre-cut to make painting and installation quick and easy. Also comes with pre-cut vinyl decals and protective overspray film.
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#87477 Gunmetal Main Chassis
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Orange Anodized SS Parts
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Unique customized looks with a gunmetal-anodized 6061 T6 aluminum monocoque chassis. Super-rigid for supreme performance, it also looks amazing under the bodyshell!
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From the shock caps to the engine plate and chassis braces, you can see lightweight anodized aircraft aluminum 6061 T6 parts that highlight the incomparable looks of the Baja SS chassis.
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To improve the handling of the Baja even further, a full set of new #87561 and #87562 VVC/HD Baja shocks are included that improve handling on all types of terrain and are also heavy-duty to keep things secure on the track. A complete set of #86618 sway bars are included to keep your Baja SS planted in the curves and aid traction. To get more rear suspension travel at the rear, our designers have modified the rear shock tower brace – this gives you better rear traction and increased braking for lower lap times!
The Baja SS carries over the robust, efficient and highly detailed double-wishbone suspension from the standard Baja 5B, giving you amazing control and precision over any type of terrain. The suspension doesn’t just look like the real deal, it’s built to last! The rugged upper and lower arms will soak up the bumps and rough landings of fast off-road driving and racing, plus it’s super-strong to hold up in those inevitable crashes and rollovers!
The front and rear suspension hubs are also extremely durable and made from tough nylon composite material, so it will go the distance and absorb any bumps from crashes. Thick steel turnbuckles connected with strong composites provide a full range of movement while providing protection, plus they allow you a good range of adjustments so you can fine-tune your settings to get past the pack on the racetrack!
In addition to all the heavy duty options included with the kit, you get a tough, super-strong steering servo that is already equipped with the #80584 Metal Gear Steering upgrade. This allows you to have the security of reliable, quick steering in all conditions. With a powerful servo controlling the steering, the Baja SS will track straight and true when you want it to, no matter how bumpy the running surface it. The front wheels will also stay pointed in the right direction as you power through the turns! This is a great standard feature of the Baja SS, putting you well on your way to a solid electronics package.
To protect the tire sidewalls the kit also includes #3272 Heavy Duty Bead Locks in the Baja silver. The Heavy Duty Bead Locks feature a wide rim that extend further over the sidewall of the rear tires to protect the tires in all conditions, and especially as the Baja slides through corners and across rough ground. They are a great way to extend the life of the tires, and are available in a variety of colors to enable you to match any custom color scheme!
Finally, we can’t let the awesome good looks of the Baja SS go unannounced. Not only do you get the option #87477 Gunmetal Anodized Main Chassis, you get a full range of bright orange anodized aluminum 6061 T6 that are specific to the Baja SS. To top everything off, you get a clear bodyshell set that is totally ready for your custom paint scheme! Go for a cool subdued ‘urban camo’ paint job, a nice flame color scheme or throw your own custom racing paint scheme on the Baja SS to show off just a bit!
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Length: 817mm
Width (front): 460mm
Width (rear): 480mm
Height: 255mm
Track (front): 395mm
Track (rear): 400mm
Wheelbase: 570mm
Weight: 9.6kg (without fuel)
Camber: adjustable front & rear
Caster: adjustable front
Toe-In: adjustable front & rear
Drive System: 2WD viscous diff
Tires (front & rear): HPI Dirt Busters
HPI Baja 5T (Truck RTR)
January 19, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Available Baja Models
HPI Racing is proud to present the Baja 5T, a ready-to-run (RTR) 1/5th scale off-road truck that expands on the award-winning Baja 5B family. With the Baja 5T you get aggressive desert truck looks, high performance new features, and compatibility with many of the existing Baja 5B spare parts and option parts, wrapped up in a RTR package that gets you running in just a few minutes.
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But the Baja 5T goes way beyond looks, under the skin is a tough truck with the power to mow down anything in its path. Power comes from a massive 26cc gasoline engine, delivering rock solid performance, easy tuning and run times of more than 30 minutes on a single tank. The high performance 8,000 RPM clutch and new high flow muffler give the Baja 5T the power to launch with a roost of desert dirt on the way to a screaming top speed of more than 40 MPH.
For improved handling, the Baja 5T rear shock tower has been modified for increased rear suspension travel. All four shock absorbers have thick diameter shafts for extra durability. The VVC/HD shocks are tuned for smooth suspension dampening to help soak up the desert terrain. The innovative design of the Baja 5T includes a rigid 4mm aluminum alloy chassis for extreme durability.
Gasoline powered for low-cost operation compared to nitro fuel, easier to tune and more consistent than nitro engines. More than 30 minutes of run-time per tank.
The included TF-10 radio system is FM for excellent range and includes an adjustable failsafe system for extra protection. The SFL-10MG2 steering servo is a massive unit for quick steering and lots of torque. Standard equipment includes a new higher capacity 3000mah NiMH rechargeable receiver pack and an AC charger. The radio system is protected by a sealed housing with an external charging jack, and both servos are water resistant designs that allow the Baja 5T to be driven in extreme off-road conditions.
The Baja 5T comes ready-to-run with a high quality 3-channel FM radio with excellent range, a high torque metal-gear steering servo, failsafe equipped receiver, throttle servo and a 3000 mAh rechargeable Ni-MH receiver battery pack. The critical electronics are enclosed in a water resistant compartment to shield them from the elements.
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Disc Brake System – Braking is controlled by a vented steel/aluminum hybrid brake rotor and semi-metallic brake pads for smooth and consistent stopping power.
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Truck Body Mounts – Tough nylon construction and 8 mounting points keep the truck body securely mounted, fully adjustable design for compatibility.
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moulded Rear Spoiler – moulded nylon rear spoiler for stable handling. moulded nylon rear body brace for body protection, includes provisions for optional rear LED tail lights.
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aluminum Alloy Diff Case – For increased drivetrain durability and extended time between maintenance.
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Heavy Duty Rear Dogbones – Metal construction with rubber dirt boots for extra durability with high horsepower engines like the Fuelie 26.
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Front Skid Plate Bumper – Adjustable skid plate front bumper protects the truck on big jumps, now with 4 headlights for realistic Trophy Truck looks.
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Dirt Guards – New side guards deflect dirt and debris away from the chassis. The engine also receives dirt guards on both sides for extra protection.
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Full Ball Bearings – 23 precision metal ball bearings for efficiency, durability, and extended maintenance intervals.
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Front & Rear Sway Bars – Sway bars are used on the front and rear suspension for precise handling and stable steering feel.
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Modified Rear Shock Tower Brace – Relocates shocks for increased rear suspension travel for stable performance on rough surfaces and soft landings over jumps.
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Heavy Duty Inner Foam – Special heavy duty rear inner foam inserts for extra durability and extended tire life.
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Revised Gearing – New 19T transmission top gear adapts the drive ratio for quick acceleration and high top speed when using truck tires.
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High Flow Muffler – Large capacity design, tuned for increased horsepower.
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SFL-10MG2 Metal Gear Steering Servo – Tough metal final gears for extra durability and reliable steering. Ball bearing equipped and water resistant. This oversized steering servo has high torque specs, making it a perfect match for the Baja 5T.
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Heavy Duty Beadlocks – Reinforced design increases durability of the wheels and tires. Beadlocks allow the removal and replacement of individual parts of the wheels and tires for maintenance.
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8000 RPM Clutch – Lightweight clutch and heavy duty spring launches the Baja 5T at higher RPM for more punch off the line.
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Anodized aluminum Parts – Black anodized 4mm 6061-T6 aircraft grade extruded and CNC milled chassis, orange and gunmetal anodized alloy parts give the Baja 5T an aggressive look.
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Double Wishbone Suspension – Full double wishbone front and rear suspension to soak up off-road bumps and jumps. Consistent geometry throughout the full stroke of the suspension movement for precise handling.
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Adjustable Suspension – Turnbuckles for quick and easy adjustment of toe-in. Fully adjustable camber and caster for tuning the handling to a wide variety of conditions. High quality nylon is used throughout the suspension for protection from crash damage.
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Zenoah G270RC engine (First look)
Its the first release of the 4 bolt head engine for RCs.
Dont let the numbers fool you, its a Zen 26cc but they did the numbering system a little different.
Here are some specks on the engine.
25.4cc (34mm bore, 28mm stroke) performance machine.
Zenoah took their powerful, reliable G260RC engine and made it even better. Major changes include a 4-bolt cylinder design for improved sealing and reduced gasket blowout (an improvement from the 2-bolt cylinder design of the G260RC)
- Stronger and lighter crankcase.
- an additional crankshaft bearing.
- redesigned cylinder fins for better cooling.
- larger ports.
- the high-performance WT-813 carburetor with accelerator pump as standard equipment.
- a metal-impregnated insulator gasket for a better seal.
- nd modified cylinder hardware to better resist vibration.
This engine offers serious performance.
- 4 transfer port 34mm cylinder,
- Walbro WT-813 carburetor with accelerator pump (15.88mm bore, 12.7mm venturi, independent high and low jets),
- lighter flywheel,
- “hemi”-style combustion chamber,
- full-circle crankshaft.
After opening up the package sent from DDM I took off the shroud and began the once over before starting it up. I made sure all the screws were tight and that all the gaskets were installed. It doesnt hurt to be sure.
From there I mounted it on my engine stand, filled the tank up with fuel and took it outside. I haven’t used a choakles carb before so I was having visions of flooding it out as stock settings due to them being a bit rich. Much to my surprise, after pumping the carb ball that it started up in the 2nd pull and went right to a nice medium idle.
I have decided to heat cycle this engine. This is another first for me. Usually I just mount them up and drive mild for the first tank or two. I was told by a trusted source that this is how they did it , so what the heck Ill try. richen it 1/16th from factory and let it slow idle for 10 minutes and rest for 20. Im now on the 3rd cycle. I was told to do 5 or 6 cycles with it.
Two things that I have noticed as its running is that it has a “Lope” to it at idle that is much more pronounced then the CYs that I have been running as well as the DarkSoul marine conversion. The 2nd thing is that when I start it up its races ar a fairly hefty clip for 2-3 seconds before it settles into an idle. Im guessing this is from the injector pump in the choakless carb. Ill have to do a little research on that.
Its going to a week or so till I have a chance to mount it up in my rig. Once I do and get it up and running for a few tanks Ill report back with more info.
Annual DuneToberFest Information (So-Cal / Az)
January 8, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Organized Bashing
DuneToberFest is the longest running annual Baja bash
2009 marks its 3rd Year. It offers 3 or more days of running wide open in the sand. Due to the unlimited space and the huge dunes, its the premier event of the year for the Baja builders, manufacturers, and distributors to show off the absolute fastest and strongest Bajas on the planet. This is a must go to event for the Baja owner. People come from around he world to attend. Its getting larger and crazier each year.
Sponsored by HPI BajaForum.com
More info Here
Located in Glamis CA at Buttercup Sand Dunes
October 23, 24 and 25th of 2009
Find more information on DuneToberFest at the Baja Planet Offical Forum HPIBajaTutorials.com
It is located at Exit 156 of US8 (Greys Wells Road).
For detailed information on the Event, to ask questions or make comments please visit:
www.HPIBajaForum.com
From Los Angeles, CA
* Take I-10 EAST torward SAN BERNARDINO(127 mi.)
* Take RIGHT fork onto CA-86-SPUR SOUTH toward BRAWLEY/EL CENTRO (20 mi.)
* Continue on CA-86 SOUTH (49.4 mi.)
* Continue on MAIN ST[CA-78] (3 mi.)
* Turn RIGHT onto CA-111 SOUTH (15 mi.)
* Take I-8 EAST toward YUMA, AZ (35 mi.)
* Dunebuggy Flats: Take the Gordons Well Exit North
* Buttercup: Take the Greys Well Exit South
From San Diego, CA
* Take I-8 EAST toward YUMA, AZ (160 mi.)
* Dunebuggy Flats: Take the Gordons Well Exit North
* Buttercup: Take the Greys Well Exit South.
From Phoenix/Yuma, AZ
* Take I-10 WEST toward LOS ANGELES, CA (31 mi.)
* Merge onto AZ-85 SOUTH toward I-8/YUMA, AZ (37 mi.)
* Continue on I-8 BL WEST (1 mi.)
* Continue on PIMA ST (1 mi.)
* Take I-8 WEST toward SAN DIEGO, CA (128 mi.)
* Buttercup: Take Greys Well Rd. Exit South
* Dunebuggy Flats: Take Gordons Well Exit North
Biannual BajaFest – Spring & Fall Information (Upstate NY)
January 8, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Organized Bashing
BajaFest is a biannual event hosted by HostileHobbies.
It takes place 2 times each year, once in the spring and once in the fall.
Location:
At Hostile Hobby in Beautiful Upstate NY.
8456 Harpers Ferry Rd
Springwater, NY 14560
2009 Schedule:
Spring Bajafest – 2nd weekend of June (12th-14th for 2009)
Fall Bajafest – 2nd weekend of September (11th-13th for 2009)
This makes it simple and easy to plan for every year. 2nd weekend of June and September.
Official events:
1. Off-road races (separate buggy and truck classes)
2. Oval races
3. Night racing
4. Drag races
5. Jumping contest
6. Hill climb
7. Sled pulling competition
8. Tug-o-war
9. 20 vehicle dash-for-cash (this is a true crowd pleaser)
10. Second track for unlimited open track time all weekend
Possible events:
1. Baja woods enduro (with Yamaha Rhino)
2. Hotwheels style loop-de-loop
Bajafest set the record by being the largest gathering of Bajas in the USA to date. Our event philosophy, helpful staff and great baja community helped make our events unlike any other. Our focus is to keep growing Bajafest bigger and better with every event. Just wait until 2009. We are
Milestone MX park (So-Cal) Track Info
January 8, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Baja Racing
Milestone MX park
Directions to the Park
Milestone Ranch MX Park, Inc. is located in the Riverside area of Southern California between the 10 and 60 freeways.
Address:
12685 Holly Street
Riverside, California 92509
Map to Milestone MX Park
Gates open at 8:00.
Drivers Meeting at 10:30.
Racing to follow.
$10 park admission for each driver.
Race Entry fee is $25. Spectators are free.
There will be a separate class for 4 wheel drive.
*Must be a ROAR Member.
*Must run a personal Transponder. If you do not own one they will be available to buy or rent.
Power is limited so please bring your generators.
Thunder Valley RC Park (Nor-Cal) Track Info
January 8, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Baja Racing
The RC park is located in Lakeport CA.
Address:
3851 Hill Rd.
Lakeport, Ca., 95453
Once on Hill road, you will look for the Thunder Valley RC Park sign on the West side of the road. you will then turn West onto a small access road. Head down the access road a half mile or so and look to your left for another Thunder Vally RC Park sign. There is a gate. It may be necessary to open the gate to enter. If its open leave it open, if its closed, please close it after entering. (Dont want the cows to get out if they are on that part of the property.)
Upon entering the Park Complex, Take the road the goes in between the House and the 8th scale track and veer to the left after the house. There is a parking lot / pitting area down and to your left in front of the track.
Rules are still being revised for the classes.
Please feel free to comment on any of the rules. They are still being developed to make the race experience accomodating for everyone.
RULES:
What we are going to start with,
BAJA 5B
Stock Class —
- TIRES: Stock HPI Tires front & Rear. Stock Tires that originally came with the HPI Baja 5B RTR or SS
- MOTOR: 23cc or 26cc Stock HPI Engines. No Motor upgrades such as cranks or cylinders.
- SUSPENSION: Open
- Exhaust: HPI RTR Can or HPI High Flow Can ONLY. No HPI Tuned pipes.
Expert Class:
- TIRES: Stock HPI 5T or 5B tire, Proline Badlands or Hostile Mini MXs..
- MOTOR: 30cc MAX.No other restrictions.
- SUSPENSION: Open.
- Exhaust: HPI RTR Can or HPI High Flow Can ONLY
BAJA 5T
Sportsman Class
- TIRES: Stock HPI Tires front & Rear. Run what came on the vehicle.
- MOTOR: 26cc Stock motor only, no modifications.
- SUSPENSION: Open
- Exhaust: HPI RTR Can or HPI High Flow Can ONLY
Expert Class:
- TIRES: Stock HPI 5T tire, Proline Excavators. Must be 5T TRUCK tires and wheels. No buggy wheels or tires.
- MOTOR: 30cc MAX.
- SUSPENSION: Open.
- Exhaust: HPI RTR Can or HPI High Flow Can ONLY
Remember, this is just a base line set of rules for THUNDER VALLEY. Rules are subject to change.
Thanks for everyone’s support !!!!!
2008 HPI Baja Nationals (Race coverage and results)
January 8, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Baja Racing, Featured
Information courtesy of HPI Racing.
www.hpiracing.com
A big thanks to everyone for coming out and supporting the First HPI Baja Nationals. It was a weekend of fast Bajas and fast drivers.
Congratulations to Tony Phalen, The First Baja Unlimited National Champion and Mike Kazz, The First Baja Stock National Champion.
Complete Results!
BAJA STOCK 23cc A Main
1 7 117 60:10.63 MIKE KAZZ
2 2 113 60:11.35 DAVID GROON
3 8 110 60:07.29 BRIAN SHERMAN
4 3 110 60:27.11 MOTO ISHIBASHI
5 4 109 60:24.77 BROCK PATTERSON
6 5 103 60:14.22 BILL IRWIN
7 6 101 59:59.26 JOHN ATWOOD
8 1 92 60:09.09 CHRIS HIGA
9 9 48 35:33.25 TOM STRONG
10 11 6 21:43.31 BILL #*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*EY
Best Heat Lap/Time for BAJA STOCK 23cc:
DAVID GROON with 16/7:10.20
BAJA 5B UNLIMITED A Main
1. 118 60:30.00 TONY PHALEN
2. 115 60:18.97 JOHN SCHULTZ
3. 114 60:02.84 RODNEY KETCHAM
4. 113 60:24.80 SPENCER PERDUE
5. 112 60:27.57 FRANK MARCOS
6. 111 60:18.79 TROY PALUCHNIAK
7. 99 60:25.95 ANGEL COLON
8. 97 50:31.42 GEROGE SCOTT
9. 93 60:01.08 CHRIS HIGA
10. 81 49:38.60 JOSH ALTON
11. 52 33:39.56 JASON ASHTON
12. 13 17:50.29 BRIAN SULLIVAN
Best Heat Lap/Time for BAJA 5B UNLIMITED:
JOSH ALTON with 16/7:13.46
BAJA 5B UNLIMITED B Main
1. 42 20:26.54 TONY PHALEN
2. 40 20:18.33 CHRIS HIGA
3. 40 20:20.88 DANIEL AST
4. 39 20:01.14 SHAW TAKAHASHI
5. 39 20:09.06 AARON HUETRA
6. 38 19:57.98 RICK LINN
7. 36 20:05.69 COLLIN COCORES
8. 35 20:02.33 RAY TAKAHASHI
9. 32 16:41.52 ANDY PICENO
10. 21 11:19.79 JOHN CARY
11. 2 4:45.40 DERECK BUTTERFIELD
– 8 — DNS — FRANK BRUER
BAJA 5B UNLIMITED C Main
1. 21 10:12.96 COLLIN COCORES
2. 20 10:03.16 RAY TAKAHASHI
3. 20 10:12.31 ANDREW HILMAN
4. 20 10:21.57 JASON BOWEN
5. 20 10:22.88 BILL IRWIN
6. 19 10:06.83 GABE BROWN
7. 18 10:00.54 SANTORU TERADA
8. 18 10:39.11 DINO MOWREADER
9. 17 8:51.13 SCOTT PALUCHNIAK
10. 17 10:11.66 BOB REYNOLDS
11. 10 5:47.99 BILL MASSEY
12. 4 2:18.10 TOBY ROBINSON
BAJA 5B UNLIMITED D Main
1. 21 10:48.34 JASON BOWEN
2. 20 10:14.07 DINO MOWREADER
3. 19 10:01.98 MIKE BLAIR
4. 19 10:06.53 JOE O’NEILL
5. 19 10:18.59 AKIA KOGAWA
6 . 16 10:19.64 BRISTOL KEELE
7. 16 10:24.30 MATT ROGERS
8. 16 10:27.70 TRAVIS BROK
9. 15 8:39.41 JEFF NEES
10. 14 6:58.45 DANIEL ADAMS
11. 3 1:53.40 RON PERRY
– 1 — DNS — JOHN FERGUSON
BAJA 5B UNLIMITED E Main
1. 22 10:20.66 DANIEL ADAMS
2. 18 10:17.45 BRISTOL KEELE
3. 17 10:27.54 DALE FRISCHKNECHT
4. 13 9:55.13 LAWRENCE KLOSE
5. 10 9:45.01 ERIC CUSANOVICH
– 3 — DNS — LYN CLARKE
– 7 — DNS — KEVIN IRWIN
– 4 — DNS — THAD GARNER
Best Heat Lap/Time for BAJA 5T:
JOHN SCHULTZ with 15/7:26.17
BAJA 5T A Main
1. 20 10:30.57 DEREK BUONO
2. 19 10:04.67 DAVID GROON
3. 19 10:11.27 TED SIMPSON
4. 19 10:20.22 Dino
5. 17 10:06.74 BILL IRWIN
6. 8 3:59.30 JOHN SCHULTZ
7. 8 10:24.04 Alex Gutierrez
8. 6 4:45.62 TROY PALUCHNIAK
– 3 — DNS — GEORGE SCOTT
– 8 — DNS — THAD GARNER
Qualifying
A-Main Unlimited Class (qualifying order)
1. Josh Alton (16/7:13.46)
2. Jason Ashton (16/7:15.18)
3. Troy Paluchniak (16/7:20.79)
4. Spencer Perdue (16/7:24.17)
5. John Schultz (15/7:01.91)
6. Angel Colon (15/7:01.05)
7. Rodney Ketcham (15/7:02.08)
8. Brian Sullivan (15/7:02.76)
9. George Scott (15/7:05.37)
10. Frank Marcos (15/7:09.80)
A-Main Stock Class (qualifying order)
1. David Groon (16/7:10.20)
2. Chris Higa (16/7:12.93)
3. Brock Patterson (16/7:27.26)
4. Mike Kazz (15/7:08.72)
5. Moto Ishibashi (15/7:09.33)
6. Bill Irwin (15/7:09.82)
7. John Atwood (14/7:01.26)
8. Brian Sherman (14/7:06.53)
9. Tom Strong (14/7:09.39)
10. Bill Dickey (12/7:14.67)
11. Lawrence Klose (6/7:15.89)
For more Baja Nationals Pics and coverage at hpibajaforum.com:
http://www.hpibajaforum.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=134
Sponsored by:
Nitro2Go
Mechanix Wear
Motul
Gabe Brown Engineering
TeamPhatDadRC
QuarterScaleMotorsports
Team Orion
Proline Racing
Tulare Hobbies
Turtle Racing
Team GoNads
O’Neill Brothers Racing
HPI Baja Forum
Team Fast Eddy
Scorpion Unlimited
Zenoah America
DarkSoul Racing
Hostile Hobby
When
Saturday/Sunday, November 8/9, 2008
Where
The RC Tracks at Milestone Ranch MX Park, 12685 Holly Street, Riverside, California 92509 http://www.milestonemx.com/
Baja Nationals 2008 Rules
Classes:
HPI 23CC Stock Class
-HPI Baja 5B
-Stock 23CC HPI Fuelie Engine, #15401 Fuelie 23 Engine, no mods, no CY or Zenoah subs.
-Any HPI option parts (except #15403 Fuelie 26S Engine)
-Top 5 in class will be subject to post race tech by HPI staff (complete engine tear down)
-Allowable non HPI options are Outerwears shock, pullstart and air filter covers.
-HPI Tires/wheels/rims/foams only.
-Open RX/TX, batteries, servos (Note on servos, servos must be mounted on HPI mounting hardware only).
RE: Engine teardown.
The HPI Tech will be instructed to compare the engine/internals to a stock #15401 Fuelie 23CC Engine. If the parts do not match then the engine will not pass tech.
HPI Baja Unlimited
-HPI Baja 5B
-Stock HPI fuel tank (#85446). Option/after market fuel caps allowed.
-Rear wheel drive only
-Any available Baja 5B option parts allowed!
Practice Sessions
-The track will be open for practice on Thursday and Friday, with limited practice on Wednesday.
-Please visit http://www.hpibajaforum.com or contact Larry Cross at (909) 887-9700, (800) 266-7745 for more info.
-Practice runs are limited to 12 cars at the track at one time, please be curteous to you’re fellow drivers.
-Saturday will be 1 round of controlled practice determined by you’re qualifying heat/order (10 car/10 minute runs)
-Depending on the number of entries and the schedule on Saturday we may run 2 or 3 controlled practice sessions.
Qualifying Format
-2 sessions on Saturday, 1 session on Sunday.
-Best session time will determine order for the Main Events.
-10 car/10 minute qulifiers.
-Heads up start.
-Heats will be re-sorted before the last qualifier.
-Drivers must turn marshall the race following they’re race, failure to do so will result in a one lap deduction of they’re best qualifier.
-Immediately after the finish of each race, drivers must place they’re cars on the impound table, to be picked up after you have finished turn marshalling.
Mains/Race Format
-10 car/10 minute mains (except A-Main which will have 12), top 2 in each main bumps up to the next higher main.
-10 minute mains thru the C-Mains in both classes.
-20 minute B-Mains in both classes.
-12 car/1 hour A-Mains for both classes.
-Mandatory 1 pitstop in each A-Main (we will tag the car to indicate that you have made you’re one stop).
-Immediately after the finish of each race, drivers must place they’re cars on the impound table, to be picked up after you have finished turn marshalling.
Prizes
Trophies, hpi kits and manufacturer prizes to the top three in each class!
Find An HPI Dealer Near You
January 1, 2009 by fasteddy
Filed under Available Baja Models
HPI has a full dealer listing available from their website.
Just plug in your Zip Code and find the closest Hobby Shop.
If you prefer to order on-line, make sure the dealer is an authorized HPI Dealer.
Trusted On-Line Dealers:
